Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes Shocks, springs, cages, brakes, sub-frame connectors, etc.

Rusted Top Shock Nut!!!!!!!

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Old May 3, 2004 | 12:21 PM
  #1  
SATANAZ666's Avatar
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Rusted Top Shock Nut!!!!!!!

wELL AS THE TITLE SAYS, Im having a little bit of a hard time taking off the top nut of the shock on the passenger side. Its all rusted!!!! and when it moves it moves along with the shaft!!!! grrrrrrr. Im thinking of using my SAW-SALL and slicing the sahft while the spirng is being compressed... how did you guys get this thing off?????????
Old May 3, 2004 | 12:33 PM
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#1 Use a sawzall w/ a shorter blade and cut just under the rubber mount.

#2 Penetrating liquid and alot of patience.

#3 Nut cracker.

#4 Cut the shaft off flush with the nut, and drill down through the nut till your hear the "pop".

Last edited by Bone Daddy; May 3, 2004 at 12:39 PM.
Old May 3, 2004 | 02:25 PM
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HUMM

oK BONEDADDY, WHERE EXACTLY YOU SUGGEST I cut?
I know you said right below the rubber mount, but where....in between the springs???/ the shaft?????
Old May 3, 2004 | 02:57 PM
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You posted about the upper nut... so yes, cut just under the upper rubber mount, (but too low or too long, and you'll cut the body). Or, cut below the nut. NEVER cut the middle of a shock, fluid gets everywhere and it's toxic.

Last edited by Bone Daddy; May 3, 2004 at 03:04 PM.
Old May 3, 2004 | 03:04 PM
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sRRY TO Bother you so much bonedaddy, but Can I just cut the shaft?????? you know the metal shinny one under the dust boot???????? also can I use a SAW-SALL WITH METAL CUTTING BLADE??
Old May 3, 2004 | 03:07 PM
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let's put it this way, if you can squeeze a sawzall into a place where you can cut the shaft, go for it. And yes use a bi-metal and fine toothed blade if possible. But for that much cutting, any generic metal blade will do.

Last edited by Bone Daddy; May 3, 2004 at 03:09 PM.
Old May 3, 2004 | 03:17 PM
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Before you put it under the knife.... errr Sawz-All.... try this. Lock a vise-grip on the shock shaft (not easy, it is extremely hard), then go at the nut with an air impact wrench. Tighten it first, to give you a 1/2 thread or so a running start on backing it off with the impact wrench. When it stops - and it will - tighten again and back off again. I've had luck breaking a couple of them loose that way.
Old May 3, 2004 | 03:28 PM
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WILL A BLADE WITH 24 TEETH PER INCH BE GOOD???
Old May 3, 2004 | 03:36 PM
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It will jump like a mexican car show with 24 tpi, so be careful. But as long as it cuts metal it will "work".
Old May 4, 2004 | 11:08 AM
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inder the knife......erghhhhh dremel

LET ME TELL YOU all that I got that little sucker off!!!
I used a reinforced dremel disk and sliced the hell out of that nut!!!! then i used a good o'l hammer and chisel and put a hurtin on the sliced nut! it came out no problem! I greased everything up put the new shock in and put it back together!

thanks guys for the ideas.......now on to changing and drillin and or using my dremel for the rivets on the upper ball joints...im going to change them too, i MIGHT AS WELL IM IN THERE ALREADY. tHE TIE ROD ENDS AND EVERYTHING WILL BE BACK TO NEW..HEHEHEHEHEH
Old May 4, 2004 | 11:13 AM
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Congrats!

I should have added 2 more options to my post.

#5 Dremel and some patience.

#6 Go medieval on that ***.
Old May 4, 2004 | 11:59 AM
  #12  
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By the way, when you install the new shocks, put a big glob of grease over that nut so it isn't a problem the next time..

Dave
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