Panhard bar question
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Panhard bar question
I have the opportunity to purchase a non-adjustable bar at a good price.After looking at some of the threads on this subject I am rethinking my course of action.The adjustable(both ends) seems to be the smart choice but I do have a question as far centering the axle.
I noticed a lot of people use the quarter panels as a reference point.It seems to me you would want the rear axle centered with the front wheel tracks regardless of it's relationship to the body.How would you know that the quarter panels were assembled correctly at the factory?Is this what alignment shops are talking about when they offer a four wheel alignment?
Thanks for your input.
James.
I noticed a lot of people use the quarter panels as a reference point.It seems to me you would want the rear axle centered with the front wheel tracks regardless of it's relationship to the body.How would you know that the quarter panels were assembled correctly at the factory?Is this what alignment shops are talking about when they offer a four wheel alignment?
Thanks for your input.
James.
Last edited by JB94; Nov 26, 2006 at 01:30 PM.
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From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
With a solid axle car, the only thing they can "align" on the rear axle is to insure the axle assembly is completely perpendicular to the centerline of the car. That can be done by insuring the centerline of the car is in fact equally spaced between the rear wheels (side to side adjustment using the panhard rod), and that the wheels are at a true 90-degree angle to the centerline of the car (length adjustment of the LCA's). This assumes your wheels are parallel to each other to begin with, and the rear axle assembly is not bent.
You would be better off using the subframes as a reference point for the side to side location of the rear axle, on the assumption that the rear subframes are actually "square" with the front subframes. If this isn't the case, you are correct, the rear wheels will not track the front wheels. But in that case, the subframes would need to be trued, not a band-aid applied like intentionally locating the body off center over the axle.
You are correct in assuming that the quarter panels would not be as good a reference point as the subframes.
You would be better off using the subframes as a reference point for the side to side location of the rear axle, on the assumption that the rear subframes are actually "square" with the front subframes. If this isn't the case, you are correct, the rear wheels will not track the front wheels. But in that case, the subframes would need to be trued, not a band-aid applied like intentionally locating the body off center over the axle.
You are correct in assuming that the quarter panels would not be as good a reference point as the subframes.
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Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 1,227
From: Texas
I measure the old PHB C/L to C/L and adjust the replacement to match the stocker and install it.
I lower the car to the ground and squirt a small section of the driveway with water and roll the car through the water.
I then look at where the wet patch left on the driveway by the rear tires is in relation to the wet patch left by the front tires.
I then adjust the PHB accordingly and repeat till I get the fronts riding directly on top of the rears.
Make sure the tires are all aired up to the same pressure.
Simple and it works.
I lower the car to the ground and squirt a small section of the driveway with water and roll the car through the water.
I then look at where the wet patch left on the driveway by the rear tires is in relation to the wet patch left by the front tires.
I then adjust the PHB accordingly and repeat till I get the fronts riding directly on top of the rears.
Make sure the tires are all aired up to the same pressure.
Simple and it works.
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