You also need to unbolt both swaybar endlinks, and by my service manual (1999) the end of the rear spring pigtails is pointed forward.

"Hose mod", 5/8" ID Oil/Fuel line hose,about 3' total, 18" per spring.
Spray some Windex inside the hose, and slide it on until you've covered about 1 full coil, let the hose extend about 1/2" to 1" past the end of the spring, cut of any excess hose extending past that, then reinstall.

 

[QUOTE=? I'd rather pay <$500 than nearly $1000

QUOTE]

After riding on the koni's for a few years now I wonder how i ever drove the car without them. If i ever buy another f body a pcm tune, subframe connectors and koni's will be on it the next day.

I know they are $800 bucks but if you had them for a day you would never think about the cost of them again.

 

OK, you're selling me Can you tell me if I buy Konis with lowering springs as a kit, will I need a spring compressor to install them, or do they come assembled -- ready to bolt on?

 

You'll have to assemble them. I'd say rather than renting/buying a spring compressor it's probably worth finding a local shop that'll give you a good price to do them, if you've never used a spring compressor before.

 

I think that is good advice. Thanks.

 

It's mostly safety. I figure you can probably find someone who'll do it for you for $50-75 verses you have to go buy the tool for $15-30, then you spend a couple hours doing it which is easily worth $20 to you (assuming you're working a full time job making decent money, compared to being a high school student, which judging by your signature I'd say your not the latter. )

I've heard from some people it's a piece of cake to use a spring compressor I've also heard from some people it's pretty dangerous. I can't say from personal experience because I bought my car lowered, but I plan on changing my springs in the next year or so and when I do I'll most likely have my mechanic do it for me.

 

Well, I just got through busting my wife's chops for spending too much money, so I am certainly not rich -- but I do make an honest living I used to farm for a living (if that's what you called it) so I can wrench if I have too. I don't have the tools for this job and I have also heard that it can be dangerous. Since my family depends on my being able to perform my real job, I think I leave the potentially dangerous work to an expert. If I'm lucky, maybe I can watch and learn something!

 

Didn't mean to imply you were, I was morely implying that high school kids might be more willing to do it themselves as they can't afford to pay the labor.

 

I would do most of the work yourself, then take the shock/spring assembly to a shop and have them compress the springs and transfer any hardware over to your new shocks, then take them home and reinstall them yourself.
The works not hard, just a little time consuming.

 

No negative implication here. I think what you said was very insightful. I may take bluz28's advice though and do a partial "sub-contract"

It is clear from this thread that I should go with Koni shocks. The springs are a different story. How about some comments on going with a dedicated lowering set vs. lowered stock (dual perch Konis) in front and hose mod in back. What should I expect from the various setups?

 

Stock springs will give you the best ride quality while lowering springs usually have an increased spring rate and will ride firmer. The Koni's will be the key component for either setup. It really depends on what you want out of the car.
I am running Strano Springs Koni 4/4's with Sam's 35/22 Hollow swaybar set and the difference from the old stock components is truly night and day. Gone is the disconected wallowing feeling, Now the car is nimble planted and composed in almost all situations. Ride is firm like a sports car but not harsh like a race car.

 

It all depends on what's most important to you, what you're willing/not willing to sacrifice (ground clearance, ride quality, etc...).

 

Well now that *is* a question. I can't give up too much clearance since I live in the country and have a looooooooggggg gravel driveway. I think 1" lower would be the maximum I could deal with. Does lowering in and of itself cause the ride to be stiffer? I kind of like the way my car rides, but do feel that it looks a little tall. Maybe what I should do is add bigger wheels (danger, thread drift).

Based on what I have learned via this thread, I am thinking that I may want to add the Konis in that stock configuration and drive it a bit, then consider the "hose mod/lower front perch" setup. How would that alone affect ride quality or improve/hurt handling?

I really do appreciate all the info you guys are providing.

 

Lowering itself isn't going to make the ride stiffer, unless you lower it all the way down on to the bump stops(eibach sportline). Lowering will make your car more apt to hit the bump stops, but with a mild lowering and good shocks to control things that shouldn't be a problem even with the factory springs. If you chose to go lower you do need higher spring rate spring (stiffer) to work with less suspension travel.
Also, I would give the rear hose mod a try since it's very inexpensive and easy to do. That way you'll get a better idea if it's a viable option for you. If the koni's are really out of you price range, Bilstein shocks are still a good option even though most won't recommend them with lowering springs, they work surprisingly well with them.

 

I say lower it. It's a hunk of metal. Enjoy it before you become worm dirt.