As some know, I have a 30th Anniversary Edition convertible that is in pristine stock condition. The car has about 13,000 miles on it these days, but it still looks almost showroom new. (If I could just get that darn white top to look better) Anyway, I am always looking at the stance of this car in a bit of a negative way. Lowering it (especially in the rear) would make it look a lot better. However, I am afraid of the departure from stock.

I'd love to have some pictures of a lowered 30th Anniversary car, if anyone has them. Also, what are your thoughts about modifying a car that could be more valuable in stock form?

 

mudbone:
Don't do anything that's irreversible. Save ALL the original pieces. Bag and tag ALL the fasteners. The prospective, next owner will consider you very responsible and thank you if they buy. (well, maybe they will.)

 

There's nothing wrong with modifying a car, even if it's rare and low mileage. It's not like your welding up a cage or cutting out the floor pan for a T-56 swap. The only concerns you should have about lowering it is you could scrape up the bottom of the bumper a little more or collect more rock chips. It'd be one thing if you were modifying a 1 of 1 Ferrari or something, but it's a 12 year old f-body. (I don't mean this in a negative way, as I'm sure I appreciate my f-body as much as you do)

That being said, I say go for it. Just a modest ~1" drop all around would look great. Pics of my lowered Arctic White '97 SS can be found on my fquick. (See Sig)

edit: I agree with keeping the stock pieces. I didn't say it but kinda implied it with the welding/etc.

 

You could do the "hose mod"in the rear (.5"-.75" lowering)with a set of Koni SA 3s or 4s. Up front a set Koni SAs on the lower spring spring seat perch(.75" lowering). This is with the stock springs and give the car a nice stance/ride.

 

Exactly what I was thinking.
And it replaces the stock Decarbon shocks with probably the best dampers available. Win win situation

.

 

koni 4/4's and strano springs all day. Save every stock part in your situation.

 

Please explain this "hose mod" I gather from your post that this is a shock-only modification. I don't understand how this lowers the car. I'll search up the Koni page and see what I can figure out.

(after reading and searching...) OK, now I get it. The hose mod removes a "spacer" which sets the spring higher above the axle perch, thus lowering the car.

Is this shock recommendation the same one as bluz28's, above? I'm not getting the lingo just yet.

(after viewing stranoparts.com ...) Now I get what 4/3s and 4/4s are. Do the Bilsteins have a dual perch on the front? I'd rather pay <$500 than nearly $1000

Thanks for all the replies guys. Good comments!

 

Unfortunately Koni is the only company that I know of that offers the dual perch locations on the front shock. I've had my Koni's (4/4's with Strano Springs) for over a year now and I must say it's one of the best mods I've done. Their superior valving and adjustability are second to none IMO and worth every penny.
The single best thing you can do to help ride and control for these cars is get a quality shock.

 

Top pic is stock,second pic is lowered 1.25'' all around. I lowered the back first and drove it like that before I got a chance to do the front. I really liked the way it looked.I may lower the back a little more yet. I say JUST DO IT !. Keep your old springs. The rear is very simple to do. Koni's are the way to go. No regrets.

 

It certainly does look better that way. I think it might be time to raid the squirrel fund

Can you comment on the ride after the 1.25" lowering and what springs did you use?

 

mudbone:
:Please explain this "hose mod" I gather from your post that this is a shock-only modification. I don't understand how this lowers the car. I'll search up the Koni page and see what I can figure out."

It's a spring perch mod. The rears have a rubber noise/vibration isolator between the top of the spring and the chassis spring pocket. The isolator is ~ 1" thick. You remove that and replace it with a length of the appropriate diameter heater hose that is greased and slips over and around the top coil of the spring. It replaces the isolator and since the wall thickness of the hose is ~ 1/4" you have effectively lowered the body ~ 3/4". As an added bonus, it also essentially lowers the body end of the panhard bar (track bar) which enhances rear traction slightly!

 

Thanks, I sorta figured it out browsing the search tool. Do you know of any step-by-step links? I guess you just jack up the car and pull the springs out, but somehow I think there may be more to it than that

 

Anyone care to comment on this setup instead of the Konis?

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...86&postcount=1

 

mudbone:
"but somehow I think there may be more to it than that"
It's reasonably easy to do. Back of car up on jackstands, floor jack under the rear's center section and unbolt the shocks from the rear end so it can be lowered enough to get the springs out. Note the orientation of the end of the spring coil to the car and reinstall that way. Is the end of the coil towards the front or rear or side? If the car body's height at the rear wheel arches (with someone or equivalent weight in the driver's seat) is not the same left to right sometimes a small static height adjustment can be made by rotating the end of coil position. (I can't remember for certain but I think end of coil towards the front will lower that side a small amount)

 

Thanks NJ-LE, It occurred to me this afternoon while I was sitting in the shop listening to the Brickyard 400 (turned it off after the penalty -- what BS)... Anyway, Mudbone, Jr's car (a '95) came with a full set of service manuals! What a great way to pass the time of day. I read up on removing the rear axle while Juan Pablo smoked the field. Now to decide on the used Bilsteins or the Konis.