My new rotors and pads have arrived for my 99 Z28 so I will fit them over this weekend

I have only ever replaced the front rotors and pads, is it just as easy with the back set?
What about the hand break adjustment, should it only move a few clicks?
While I am at it I may as well replace the break fluid, is it easy and do I need any special tools?

 

The parking brake (handbrake) is an "internal drum" inside the disk. It does not use the new pads (or the old ones) at all. So, the handbrake won't move even when installing new pads. It is just like doing the fronts. Just remove the 2 bolts, lift the caliper off, compress the piston, replace the pads, re-install the caliper and bleed the brakes if you like.

It's that easy. Have fun!

 

Thanks Trackbird for the advice, the last car I blead breaks on I needed to get a blead valve, used to stop air from going back into the system, will I need one for my Z28?

 

I place a hose on the bleeder valve and use a wrench (spanner) to open and close it. I call out "down" and the person in the drivers seat will step on the pedal. I will open the valve and watch the fluid purge. I then tighten the valve and call "up", and they take their foot off of the pedal. It's that easy.

Now, a few things.

DO NOT let the master cylinder run out of fluid. You'll wind up with air in the ABS module and that may require a trip to the dealer to get it bled properly.

I usually do 11 pumps on the rear brakes (on a full master cylinder) and then fill it back up, do 11 more, etc. You can do more, but this allows for someone to lose count and be off by a few (I usually have the person working the pedal count....you can do this with the engine off). I do 9 pumps on the front and fill the master cylinder. Other than that, it's not difficult at all.

I have been known to use a turkey baster to suck as much old fluid as I can from the master cylinder and then start with a load of fresh fluid. It just saves pumping that old stuff through the system. Be careful, the clear plastic (hard plastic) turkey basters seem to react with brake fluid (they still work, but they get brittle and can crack over time), the opaque ones that are more of a rubber (if you bend them, they bend, the clear ones would shatter when bent) seem to work better (like rubbermaid stuff is made from, if you have that brand in your country).

That should be all you need to know. That and to bleed these cars in this order.

Passenger side rear,
driver side rear,
passenger side front
driver side front.

Work from the farthest away to the closest wheel to the master cylinder.

 

Just make sure to release your parking brake before trying to take off your rear rotors. 1 tug on them will remind you though.

 

Good point, I forgot that. Also, a few whacks with a 3 lb hammer were needed to get mine come loose from the hub. Don't forget to remove the "clips" that the factory puts on 2 or 3 wheel studs to keep the disk in place during manufacturing of the car. You do not need to replace them, just cut them off and throw them out.

 

I am confused, my service manual says do not to attempt to blead the system if you have a traction control system, only have it done by a dealer.

 

I have a traction control system on my car. If you don't let the master cylinder run dry and follow the instructions I posted, you'll be fine. I've bled my brakes about 6 times now (basically changed all the fluid) and have not had any issues. I'm guessing that they are paranoid about someone running it dry and getting air in the system.

 

Thanks for your help, all done now.
One of the front rotors neaded a big hammer and one of the rear rotors did not want to let go of the handbreak shoe but apart from that it all went very well I replaced all the pads, rotors and blead the system.
Just go to drive a bit slow for the next 2 or 3 hundred miles to bed them in.

 

What pads did you use? Just a replacement pad? Or something more aggressive?

You can bed them (even street pads) by making 2 or 3 stops from 35mph to 5 mph (medium pedal pressure) and driving it for a mile or so to cool it off. Then repeat the cycle a couple times and you'll have them ready to go. Or, you can drive them until they wear in, but I prefer to get the brakes bedded and then drive the car.

Either way, I'm glad to hear that you got it done.

 

I live in the UK so I don't have much choice, last time I did the front rotors I used oem parts and this time I am trying EBC Sport Slotted Rotors with Red Stuff pads, in the end I got a good deal and they turned out cheaper than the oems
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/Automotive.html

 

Since you will be bleeding the system anyway, when it comes time to compress the piston on the caliper. Once you have pressure on the piston from the C-clamp, open the bleeder and push all that old nasty fluid out of there when you push the piston in. It's a better idea than pushing it back into the system....

 

Hi, I am also in the UK. My first rotors lasted about 50,000 miles but the dealer fitted OEM replacements only managed about 10,000. I have a sneaky feeling it is because I used them whilst driving in Germany. (Cruise control actually works at nearly 150mph). You have to hit the breaks quite hard when some idiot pulls out to overtake a lorry and he is only doing about 80mph. I guess this has taken it's toll.

I would like to fit something that may be more robust, because reading this forum it does not see m that anyone has faith in the OEM fitment. So my question really is how is your combination working out, and how much will I have to pay.

Cheers, Tony.