front control arm busing material?
Ive searched all over this forum and others, and Im still on the fence about which bushing material I should use up front in the upper and lower control arms..
I have read most people hate poly because it rides very rough and the position of the lower arm in the rear tends to bind and wear out very quickly.
There are others who recommend the 1LE bushings up front from GM. Are they really stiffer than stock ones but are still rubber and therefore right between the normal rubber and poly?
Others say Moog is the better route to go. Does moog make stock ones and 1LE type ones?
I have read where a couple people say to use the poly kit, and buy a moog busing for that rear spot on the lower control arm...
After reading everything I just dont know...
First and foremost, this is a daily driver. I drive it hard on the street, and I tend to push corners pretty hard when Im driving out in the country.
You can see in my sig that Im not messing around with my car, pretty much nothing is left stock...
This spring will find my car getting some Strano sway bars, Strano lowering springs, and the koni 4/3 kit..
Please post up your ideas/concerns/recommendations. I want to make an informed decision on this, and I need to replace the bushings while Im in there because they are 16 years old and have 125xxx+ miles on them.
Many thanks!!!
Cody
I have read most people hate poly because it rides very rough and the position of the lower arm in the rear tends to bind and wear out very quickly.
There are others who recommend the 1LE bushings up front from GM. Are they really stiffer than stock ones but are still rubber and therefore right between the normal rubber and poly?
Others say Moog is the better route to go. Does moog make stock ones and 1LE type ones?
I have read where a couple people say to use the poly kit, and buy a moog busing for that rear spot on the lower control arm...
After reading everything I just dont know...
First and foremost, this is a daily driver. I drive it hard on the street, and I tend to push corners pretty hard when Im driving out in the country.
You can see in my sig that Im not messing around with my car, pretty much nothing is left stock...
This spring will find my car getting some Strano sway bars, Strano lowering springs, and the koni 4/3 kit..
Please post up your ideas/concerns/recommendations. I want to make an informed decision on this, and I need to replace the bushings while Im in there because they are 16 years old and have 125xxx+ miles on them.
Many thanks!!!
Cody
Re: front control arm busing material?
The Energy Suspension poly kit includes a revised bushing design for the vertical bushing on the lower A-arm, to prevent "bind". I've had the poly set for about 13 years and its never been a problem. But my car doesn't get driven much any more.
Re: front control arm busing material?
How many miles do you think you have on these bushings? Im really concerned with longevity, as I dont want to have to address these things again in a year or two because the squeek is horrible, or because that lower rear bushing is shot...
Thanks for your input!!
Re: front control arm bushing material?
You're on the right track as far as replacing the factory bushings...they are crappy, half-contact rubber bushings. 1LE bushings are full contact...see the pic for the difference.

I did the complete 1LE suspension setup using Bilstein HD shocks and I'm impressed w/it. If I had to do anymore to it(like race), I might add a slightly larger roll bar up front, but for now it's more then enough for the street.
What did Sam say about the bushings? I think the 1LE and aftermarket moogs are very similar.
I've used poly bushings in heavier GM vehicles(a and b bodies) and they did well, however I have no experience w/them in the f-body. My z28 got so rough and uncontrolled before going the 1LE route, that I didn't want the possibility of the go-cart feel that kicks out in the corners since its a bit lighter. The suspension has to be able to articulate. It has an almost beemer like ride now, that really digs(holds) into the turns. FWIW.
I did the complete 1LE suspension setup using Bilstein HD shocks and I'm impressed w/it. If I had to do anymore to it(like race), I might add a slightly larger roll bar up front, but for now it's more then enough for the street.
What did Sam say about the bushings? I think the 1LE and aftermarket moogs are very similar.
I've used poly bushings in heavier GM vehicles(a and b bodies) and they did well, however I have no experience w/them in the f-body. My z28 got so rough and uncontrolled before going the 1LE route, that I didn't want the possibility of the go-cart feel that kicks out in the corners since its a bit lighter. The suspension has to be able to articulate. It has an almost beemer like ride now, that really digs(holds) into the turns. FWIW.
Re: front control arm bushing material?
You're on the right track as far as replacing the factory bushings...they are crappy, half-contact rubber bushings. 1LE bushings are full contact...see the pic for the difference.

I did the complete 1LE suspension setup using Bilstein HD shocks and I'm impressed w/it. If I had to do anymore to it(like race), I might add a slightly larger roll bar up front, but for now it's more then enough for the street.
What did Sam say about the bushings? I think the 1LE and aftermarket moogs are very similar.
I've used poly bushings in heavier GM vehicles(a and b bodies) and they did well, however I have no experience w/them in the f-body. My z28 got so rough and uncontrolled before going the 1LE route, that I didn't want the possibility of the go-cart feel that kicks out in the corners since its a bit lighter. The suspension has to be able to articulate. It has an almost beemer like ride now, that really digs(holds) into the turns. FWIW.
I did the complete 1LE suspension setup using Bilstein HD shocks and I'm impressed w/it. If I had to do anymore to it(like race), I might add a slightly larger roll bar up front, but for now it's more then enough for the street.
What did Sam say about the bushings? I think the 1LE and aftermarket moogs are very similar.
I've used poly bushings in heavier GM vehicles(a and b bodies) and they did well, however I have no experience w/them in the f-body. My z28 got so rough and uncontrolled before going the 1LE route, that I didn't want the possibility of the go-cart feel that kicks out in the corners since its a bit lighter. The suspension has to be able to articulate. It has an almost beemer like ride now, that really digs(holds) into the turns. FWIW.

The lower A arm bushings are not available either. I did manage to cross them over to Moog, part# k6490 for the kit. Are you sure they are the same as the Original GM 1LE's?
Because of the GM's not available, Im leaning either Moog or the full polly. perhaps doing the moog rear bushing since the poly doesn't allow it to articulate supposedly...
Re: front control arm bushing material?
I bought the 1LE arms preloaded from GM about 5-6yrs ago...They were a lot cheaper then... I was able to replace the arms and the front shocks in a day without air tools. That was the goal, rather than having it on blocks for a week while removing and pressing in bushings. The moog bushings are full contact bushings, not sure if the durometer of the rubber is the same as the 1LE's though. Someone at Strano's or moog might know the answer.
Re: front control arm bushing material?
I bought the 1LE arms preloaded from GM about 5-6yrs ago...They were a lot cheaper then... I was able to replace the arms and the front shocks in a day without air tools. That was the goal, rather than having it on blocks for a week while removing and pressing in bushings. The moog bushings are full contact bushings, not sure if the durometer of the rubber is the same as the 1LE's though. Someone at Strano's or moog might know the answer.
Last edited by firebirdStud; Feb 16, 2011 at 08:20 PM.
Re: front control arm busing material?
anyone know how the moog bushing compares to the 1LE?? I cant get ahold of any 1LE front bushings, all sold out for the lowers, and the uppers I have to buy the loaded A-arm at 170 a side! Ouch.
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