I just installed an SJM ABS delete kit. I didn't get the linelock or anything fancy, just a proportioning valve and a couple randomly prebent tubes.

After installing the kit, I started the bleeding process. I started with the right rear wheel, and bled it out with no problems. Then I moved to the left rear wheel. Again, no probs.

The two front brakes are giving me trouble though. I opened the right front bleeder screw, and attached my one-man bleeder bottle. THen I pressed the brake pedal. It sunk down halfway and then it hit a brick wall. I would not sink to the floor like it's supposed to.

I opened the beeder screw another turn, and tried again. Same result. I took the bleeder screw totally off of the caliper, and got the same result. The pedal would not sink to the floor, and only a small dribble of fluid was coming out.

The same thing happened on the front left caliper.

Any ideas what might be causing this?

 

No help? Really? No one has any ideas?

 

Maybe a line got kinked or crushed during the install? Kinda sounds like a blockage of some sort to me.

 

Try adjusting the proportioning valve.

 

I'm gonna try that first, just because it's an easy fix.

I emailed SJM, and they said the same thing. It sounds like line blockage somewhere. I'll start by checking my flare fittings. I made some ugly double flares, so one of them might have bunched up and binded somewhere.

 

I sort of had the same problem when I installed mine so we started bleeding the 'opposite' way than normal, ie we started at the front driver side and worked our way back to the passenger rear. This worked, and then we made sure to do it 'the right way' and all is good now.

Also that proportioning valve might be closed all the way, you will want to open it up and then adjust once all the bleeding has been accomplished.

 

Well......

As usual, I'm the dumbass. I first adjusted my prop valve and attempted to bleed the fronts. No dice.

Then, I pulled apart my Tfitting that splits press to the two fronts, and tried to bleed that. No dice. Next, I pulled the line out of the front of the master cyl, and tried to bleed that. No dice.

I then pulled off the master cylinder, and thoroughly cleaned it, negating my perfectly bled rear brakes.

WHen I reinstalled the master, I installed the lines OPPOSITE what I had before. Originally, I had the front brakes being fed by the front hole in the master cyl, and the rear brakes from the rear hole in the master.

This time, I have the front brakes being fed by the REAR hole in the master, and vice versa. They work perfectly now.

Unfortunatley, now that I can properly bleed the fronts, I have discovered that all of my homemade flares leak.

The whole reason I bought the SJM ABS delete kit for $150 is so I wouldn't have to make my own fittings and worry about them leaking. I honestly see NO REASON AT ALL to ever buy the SJM kit if you don't want a linelock. I had to flare my own lines. The pre-bent lines were not pre-bent in the direction I needed them to go. THey were pre-bent in the directions needed for a linelock. The flaring tool included in the kit was poor quality and broke. (I'm sure I am a little to blame for that though).

I really wish I had just bought a willwood prop valve for $40 and a couple napa brake lines and done it myself. I would return the kit, but I've already jacked it up with all my modifications.

 

all that stuff is metric bubble flared right?

Why are your flares leaking? I plumb brakes all the time on cars.....

also swapping the lines don't matter...... you probly never bled the m/c like it needed to be

 

the two lines out of the M/C are bubble flare, but the rest are double flare.

If there was some little intermediate step that needed to be done, I.E. bleeding the M/C you can count on me to not have done it!

 

Gnerally, you need to "bench" bleed the MC before you install it.

 

I pulled apart my whole brake line system today, and started over.

First, I "bench bled" the MC by pumping the brake pedal a couple times without lines on it. It had a steady steam of fluid coming out, so I put a small amount of teflon tape on the lines, and installed them into the MC.

Then, I cut off my crappy flares, and very carefully re-flared my lines. They look MUCH better now. I installed them with teflon tape as well, and they are now leak free.

I now just need to bleed the whole system. It has alot of air in it. I used up an entire large can of brake fluid, and I only got 1 wheel done.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

telfon tape is a waste. You only use that on stuff that seAls on the thread...like a tapered pipe thread.

Your stuff seals with the flare......the line seals, the other part is just a nut to keep the flare tight

 

I thought that as well, but.... Shon said he uses it, so I put 1 wrap on just for safe measure.

 

as stated, I did lines-leaked, called SJM, they send me all new parts, still leaked. Had ASE GM mechanic come over and redid the flares with his "GM TOOLS" and still leaked. He decided to put tape on them and no more leaks.

doesnt make sense to me either but it worked.