Cracked ProFab Tubular K-member
Cracked ProFab Tubular K-member
I have a Profab tubular K-member I bought for my 1985 Z28 back in 2005 while I was in Japan and my car was in the U.S.
I am all most ready to put it on but I have a few questions on some flaws I have herd about with these.
I have herd that they have been known to crack on street driven cars, is this true?
If so are where are weakest links that need reinforcing?
How about ideas on just making it stronger?
There are little steel tryangles added to some of the weld joints, should I think about adding what I can to these points?
I have been known to go as far as modify after market parts to fit my needs.
I am all most ready to put it on but I have a few questions on some flaws I have herd about with these.
I have herd that they have been known to crack on street driven cars, is this true?
If so are where are weakest links that need reinforcing?
How about ideas on just making it stronger?
There are little steel tryangles added to some of the weld joints, should I think about adding what I can to these points?
I have been known to go as far as modify after market parts to fit my needs.
Re: Cracked ProFab Tubular K-member
have you done a google pic search for cracked k-member? there's a few out there that will show where the weak points are. usually brakes are where the lower control arm meets near the motor mount area. that's the most stressed point on the k-member. it's where the control arm deflects into the k-member, where the weight of the car sits, and where the forces of steering come into play.
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