im going to delete my abs and traction control modules in the brake system, which flaring kit do you recommend?

SUMMIT p/n SUM-900310 http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=SUM%2D900310

JEGS p/n 555-80087
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...01&prmenbr=361

thanks
jesse

 

which ever one you choose, keep in mind that our brake line connections end in a bubble flare, not a double flare, so you'll need to buy adapter connections if you double flare them. this way they fit properly into the master cylinder, or the brackets where the join into the flex lines

i went through this ordeal when replacing a small section of brake line near the rear end of the car during the winter

 

they are both the same.. you might wanna look for a kit that does a 37 degree flare, it seems to seal a little better. and I am very very glad that someone mentioned the bubble flare. I have yet to do anything to the lines on my car do I din;t know if they were bubble or standered double flare but you can NOT mix them up. like he said you can make your lines and then use end adapters to be able to link everything up to the stock fittings.

 

thanks
is there anything to buy to make a bubble flare?

jesse

 

I'm not quite done with the entire write up but here's what I did to remove abs and tcs.

http://www.pharmacy.arizona.edu/staf.../NoABSTCS.html

I used the Performance Tool Double Flare Tool W80670 made by Wilmar Corp and purchased at Sears (under $20 if I remember correctly) to make my flares. I reused the lines out of the master cylinder so I didn't need to make any bubble flares.

I just noticed in Summits new catalog they have a new product 37 degree flare kit which might be good if you go that route. It's certainly cheaper than other 37 degree tools I've seen.

 

yes there are bubble flaring kits out there, but in comparison to double flaring kits, they are about 2 or 3 times as much in cost

 

When I deleted my ABS and modded my brakes (went from drum to disc) I used s/s AN line and adapters to merge the bubble flare lines to my new layout. Now about 75% of my brake line and fittings are s/s AN. I prefer to have my lines flared at a local shop, as any kit I've ever bought works only about half the time.

 

I just used a couple of swageloc fittings - works fine. Got the idea off a post on the LS1board.

From what I've read the prop box that people install is usually set wide open - that is not reducing the flow to the rears so I did not see the point of adding one - I don't lock up the rears in this set up and the car stops great.

 

do you know what size fittings i will need exactly?

my car also has the ASR box and the ABS box, in the ASR box i have two separate lines that goes to the rear of the car, come out as one bigger line and goes into the ABS box.

do i need a tee for the rear lines as well as the front lines?

thanks
jesse

 

Here's the info on the ABS delete.

(1) Swagelok union tee SS-300-3
(1) Swagelok reducing union SS-400-6-3


just a tee for the fronts and a reducer for the rear - should cost about $30 delivered

can't help on the ASR

 

that is a great write up, i just am confused on the rear brake lines, tell me how you did yours.

BPS
where is a good place to get those p/n ?
you didnt need a proportioning valve?
what else would i need?

thanks for the help guys, im on a weight reduction frinzy
just removed the entire hvac system last week.

jesse

 

I googled swageloc and found the vendor closest to me and did the transaction over the phone.


from my reading most people who add in a prop valve (wildwood adjustable seems a popular choice) tend to open it up all the way - ie the prop valve does nothing - so I did not bother

here is a poor picture of my setup

http://www.members.shaw.ca/bps-z28/images/misc/!abs.jpg

I also moved my alt which makes things a lot cleaner looking

http://www.members.shaw.ca/bps-z28/i...20relocate.JPG

 

AWESOME pics

can i use brass (b) or do i have to use stainless steel (ss)?

jesse

 

stainless is better

 

thanks