Looking to get some new BMR LCA's
not sure if I should get the RACE or STREET version

comments/suggestions????????

 

The difference is looks. Both hold up stronger and faster than most people will ever go in their lives. Like Injuneer said once, he saw someone with tubulars go 1.3 60' times. Could he go a little faster with boxed? Maybe, but do you plan on going into the 1.3 60' time group?

 

both are tubular and adjustable, but the race version has double adj. eyering ends where the street version has poly ends and the adjuster nut in the center

 

Adjustable may be overkill. Usually the adjustable feature is only used if you're running a larger tire (27", 28" diameter) that need to be recentered within the wheel wheel.

 

so then this is neccessary then with my mickeys

 

What size tires? I used the adjustable LCA's to move the axle back and avoid a set of 28" QTP's hitting the front edge of the fender opening, when they grew at 125+ MPH trap speeds. That's one purpose they are useful for.

I really don't like the location of the "adjuster" on the street version of the BMR LCA's. The LCA's are in pure compression. The buckling load is greatest at the center of the bar. If its ever going to buckle, it will be because the threads on the adjuster let go. For the few $$$ extra, get the "race" version, threads on the ends, not in the middle.

Apears from the photo they use poly ends on the "street" version, and rod ends on the "race" version. I suspect that's why they indicate the race version is not for the street. They are going to be a bit harsh and noisy.

Have you looked at alternative designs... maybe poly on one end and the spherical rod end on the other. Minimizes noise, while eliminating "bind" when the body tries to roll in a corner. Spohn offers options on the ends.

 

28" tall mickeys

i will check out spohn

thanks

 

solid ends are VERY noisy. for a 90% street car, go with something with poly bushings, trust me, unless this is a trailer queen or just for racing. a solid metal to metal design is gonna be annoying. I have solid ones and I hate them. I'm about to just get the BMR street version, non adjustable, because I wont ever use the adjustment feature anyway.

 

I have the Spohn adjustable rod end/rod end and I love them...They are a little more noisey than the Hotchkis I replaced, but they help hook the car into the 1.5 range on small M/T radials. Look at Spohn they make great stuff at good prices...

--Alan

 

If you don't like the noise of the rod end/rod end LCA's, consider using a rod end mount on the axle end of the LCA and a poly mount on the body end. That should minimize the noise transmitted to the body, while also minimizing the bind. I'm running rod ends on the torque arm, both ends of the LCA's and on the rear sway bar end links, and none of them are noisy enough to be heard over the solid roller cam and the dual 3" pipes dumping under the floorboards

 

I wanted the rod/poly was told by a vendor not to for a street car because the rods wear to fast. do rods ends really wear out that fast?

 

The new self lubricating sealed rod ends like Spohn uses are supposed to be superior in wear characteristics and should last a long time...

--Alan

 

I have a set of custom billet Rod end/rod end setup and I love it, Wouldn't have it any other way.

But... They are a rougher ride than stock, which some would not like. Also they need replacing every so often, but if the car is a sunner-only car and doesn't see too much fowl weather then you should be ok for a while. I just took mine off the car for the first time in 15K miles, and the look fine and are still tight. I had one PHR rod end that got loose, but otherwise it's all good.

I do suggest running seals as well as the teflon lined sealed rod ends (QA1 Endura's are what I use). I do defenetly recommend some sort of seal; I use the Seals-it brand rod-end seals. For the extra $12 it's soo worth it to add that extra level of seal to the ends to help with the life.