Max lift with 1.7 RRs?
I can't really help answer your question but maybe you could answer mine. What is your goal here?
If you are trying to make the most power out of a stock bottom end, stock heads/intake LT1 then I can understand that. But you are going to find that the gains from that cam swap will be minimal, compared to what you would gain from a set of ported heads and that cam.
Just my $.02, good luck.
If you are trying to make the most power out of a stock bottom end, stock heads/intake LT1 then I can understand that. But you are going to find that the gains from that cam swap will be minimal, compared to what you would gain from a set of ported heads and that cam.
Just my $.02, good luck.
I, for right now, only have plans for bolt ons. But, I know eventually I'll do a cam. But I do know that it'll be cam only when I do. I KNOW that you can use them with a cam only car, but I want to know how big a cam I can go when/if I do.
And what do you mean you "know" that you can use them with a cam only car? If you can use them at all then you can use them with a cammed motor, you just have to keep the lift low enough or duration short enough.
I still stand by my original thoughts. I think that after you do the full bolt-ons with the rockers, you are going to be really disappointed by the cam swap. You can lift the valves higher and open them up longer but if the ports won't flow you won't make any more power. Just save up $2000 and get an LE3 package. That will make a whole lot more power (like ~430rwhp) and it saves you the guess work of picking a cam.
i ran .614 on a stock bottom end with 1.7rr, but after i pulled the le2 heads after 500 miles i had some contact btwn the piston and the valves.
From personal experiance, loose the 1.7 and go back to 1.6.
From personal experiance, loose the 1.7 and go back to 1.6.
Please remember that you can have 3 inches of valve lift if the duration is short enough. (and you can figure out how to actuate the valve)
I dont understand the use of getting 1.7 rockers unless you already have the cam installed. It would just seem easier to get the cam with more lift, and not have to deal with more rocker ratio over the 1.6.
to even consider 1.7s on a stock spring is a crazy idea! 1.6s are maximizing the stock spring hell the stock cam does not even like the stock springs it tolerates it.stock spring is rated at 85lbs mine checked out at 80-82 with 110,000 miles on them and 13 years old......
i have said for a long time STOCK valve springs should be removed and replaced for performance driving of our kind!
i have said for a long time STOCK valve springs should be removed and replaced for performance driving of our kind!
You don't understand? How about having more lift without having a cam? More power, still no cam install. Either way I'm upgrading it all, might as well do it for 1.7s. Same price.
to even consider 1.7s on a stock spring is a crazy idea! 1.6s are maximizing the stock spring hell the stock cam does not even like the stock springs it tolerates it.stock spring is rated at 85lbs mine checked out at 80-82 with 110,000 miles on them and 13 years old......
i have said for a long time STOCK valve springs should be removed and replaced for performance driving of our kind!
i have said for a long time STOCK valve springs should be removed and replaced for performance driving of our kind!
good point but i never saw where you DID NOT, have stock springs!
roadtrip
i ran .614 on a stock bottom end with 1.7rr, but after i pulled the le2 heads after 500 miles i had some contact btwn the piston and the valves.
From personal experiance, loose the 1.7 and go back to 1.6.
roadtrip
i ran .614 on a stock bottom end with 1.7rr, but after i pulled the le2 heads after 500 miles i had some contact btwn the piston and the valves.
From personal experiance, loose the 1.7 and go back to 1.6.
Last edited by 96m6lt1; Feb 19, 2008 at 02:33 PM.


