should i guys? and if so should i go with the 3/4" or 1" long ones?

the reason im asking is b/c on the driver side on my 96 theres that cruise control thing over the valvecover and on of it mounting arms is on the stock header bolt so idk how i'd get it to work with the stage 8 ?

also on the passenger side theres that alternator mounting bracket that mounts on the header bolt also

so im not sure weather to go stage 8 or not or how to fab up stuff to work in those 2 spots? thanks guys.

 

i used stage 8 locking header bolts 3/4 the 1" didnt work they where to long but i went with long tubes the 3/4 are a little hard to start but the worked fine for me and i have a 96 also later

 

hmm, okay man what did you do about the alternator bracket and cruise control mounting ?

 

Dude??

Alt bracket is no where near Headers. I'm using stage 8 now and just finished bolting motor in and I have no idea how cruise control or alt bracket would have any thing to do with these??

 

ok well on my car there is an alternator bracket going to the header stud you know one of those bolts with another 3/4 of an inch or so sticking out then the bracket goes on then another nut... same thing on other side with cruise module

how do i post pics up? i'll try to get some

 

If you want the piece of mind of having locking bolts, then go for it, they will cost more then a traditional set of header bolts though. I went with 1" header bolts for my application. The 3/4" just didn't have enough thread. Maybe this is because the Pacesetter headers have pretty thick flanges, I don't know.

 

1" bolts over 3/4". Why? In my case one of my threads in the head has nothing to hold onto at 3/4" but 1" holds great. Bigger is better.

Locking bolts? I wasn't really impressed with them one bit. Bolts eventually lock on their own, so... just check and tighten, check..and..tighten..

As for the cruise control/alternator brackets - take them out. It doesn't matter that much anyway. The alternator has 3 other points of reinforcement and the cruise control thing I've driven around with unhooked and just laying on a valve cover before. Plus it makes it much easier to check your headers.

 

I used 1" bolts, which is what I would recommend, and removed the alternator bracket to which you refer. The remaining brackets will be more than enough to secure the alternator. If you're interested in locking header bolts, try the Percy's Split Locks. These bolts used to be manufactured by Breslin, so you might be able to find some under that name. Search around on EBay.

 

I went from breslins to ARP's with no regrets. A couple months later the bolts are still as tight as day one without having to mess with the locks.

 

well, heres a CHEAPER way to get grade 8 bolts.

Go to your local westlake/ace hardware. In their "nuts/bolts" area, they sell grade 8 bolts (gold in color) for about 1.00/piece
The correct thread you need is 3/8-16. I had to go get 2" bolts this way for a set of headers that I have

 

no they are talking about STAGE 8 bolts. they are a type of locking bolt. not just standard GRADE 8.

 

 

My two cents. I have had the ARP bolts, Stage 8 and the Breslin style header bolts. As to the length I guess that depends on the thickness of the header flange. Mine are 3/8" and I use the one inch bolts.

I have had problems over the years with the ARP's backing out. I have had no problems with the Stage 8 or the Breslin's backing out. I did have a clip come off a Stage 8 on my Tahoe. They have to line up pretty close.

I personally like the Breslin style. They will lock up in any position.

 

JEGS has a lot of the Percy's Split Lock bolts listed, but there still seems to be several weeks of lead time. There is a vendor on EBay, Boese Engineering, that had some of the Breslin bolts available a few months ago. I went with the stainless steel bolts. These bolts aren't cheap.

 

I personally hated the Stage 8 bolts. Hard to install. I took them out and went back to the ARP's. If you torque them down and stay on top of them, you won't have any problems. But if you can find a set of Breslins those are the best.

As for the alternator bracket, I just left it off. I'm even missing a bolt for the alternator, and it doesn't even move. The traction control bracket that was mounted to the stock manifold bolt? Just remove the bracket and let the traction control module hang by those 2 bolts on the intake. It's not going anywhere. Or do what I did and just remove that stupid box .