i was wondering how hard that would be. i've got a very light knock. not sure what it is, but i want to find out how hard that would be to do if i had to.

 

It's certainly been done. I don't know of anyone with a 4th gen who has done it though. A lift and air tools make this job, like any big job, a lot easier but even more so 'cause a lot of the work is in awkward position. Pulling the motor isn't that bad and has a big plus: you can inspect everything else easily. I am not sure I would feel comfortable without tearing down the whole motor, unless I were going for a really "ghetto" repair job for some reason.

Rich

 

well, the motor is still saveable if it is in fact a rod knock. it runs and pulls smoothly. i'm kind of doubting its rod knock, but i'm running out of options, so i have to be open.

 

I have done this with my 94' B4C. It took a total of 8 hours from beginning to start up. I did have to wrap a chain around my strut tower brace and secure it to the engine to keep it held up and level. It is relatively easy to do. any questions pm me

 

if your rods are knocking putting new bearings on a damaged crank isnt going to solve anything, just a waste of time

 

Exactly my sentiments

 

having hardly any noise and hardly any miles would leave me to bleieve the carnk has not been destroyed

 

Either way i would recommend a rebuild...might cost a bit more but hey, might as well do it right the first time. I would use forged rods and pistons also.

 

umm, this is my new forged 355 we're talking about. well, it's not new. i purhcased it from a friend...it has roughly 2000 miles.

 

if it`s knocking, no matter how minor you need to have the crank polished.
most likely you will have to recon. the crank and rods though, good luck.

are you sure it`s not piston slap?

 

i wouldn't think it's piston slap. it doesn't change with temperature, as piston slap does. i wouldn't think i'd be hitting valves with pistons. i have JE pistons, 11.4:1 and a .603 inch cam. the je valve reliefs are much deeper than stock so that shouldn't be an issue. i had .005" piston to wall clearance so it should not be permanent slap.