Remove Dash to clean gauges??
The gauge face itself is dusty? If you need to get to them, there is a bezel surrounding the guages with two screws at the top, you remove the screws and then you can maneuver it out of the way. The plastic cover comes off next, I forget exactly how many screws/clips or where they are though. Then you will have access to the gauge face.
I replaced my clear lens cover with a new one about a month ago on my 96, so here goes how to do it.
Remove the A- pillar covers. If you car has a T-top, remove them to get the 2 bolts there on the end of the A-pillar. If you car is a hardtop they just snap off, in both cases be careful not to bend or break the plastic prongs, they have a metal tip.
Lift the dash cover (the piece closest to the windshield). This is a PITA because you could break it and it is EXPENSIVE ($180-200). Slide a long flat screwdriver where you feel a little resistance and just twist it gently, that should separate the industrial quality velcro that holds the cover in place, it has no bolts. Use a flashlight to see and understand what you're doing. Work your way gently around, do the corners then work from the center out. When you can lift a bit the whole front (the part closest to you) then reach even deeper there are more velcro attachment points there, there are like 7-8 in all. You can hold it propped up by putting something underneath, like 2 small rolled up towels.
open the glovebox, and remove the screws that holds a tab for the instrument cluster cover and the radio bezel.
Remove or loosen and lower the cover underneath the steering column, above the driver footwell. it has 2 screws in the front and 2 in the back, remove also the fuse box cover so it won't fall down and break.
When this cover is removed you will expose 3 or 4 other bolts that hold the instrument bezel, as well as the ones that hold the radio bezel in place.
Remove the radio bezel by simply sliding it out after you removed the 4 screws. You have to do this because the instrument bezel has a lip that goes under the radio bezel.
Reach under the area of the dash pad and find the 2 screws that hold the top of the instrument bezel. Those are the last ones and should let the piece free. Make sure you identify the proper ones, because there are 2 others that hold the upper part of the dash structure to the chassis and use a stubby screwdriver. Disconnect the plug for the headlight switch.
now that the instrument bezel has been removed, you can remove the hex screws that hold the clear plexiglass cover in place, and you can clean inside the instruments.
Reinstallation is the reverse procedure, just be careful with the dash pad. See where the velcro attachments are and press carefully only in those places, or you can break it.
Hope it helps you!
Remove the A- pillar covers. If you car has a T-top, remove them to get the 2 bolts there on the end of the A-pillar. If you car is a hardtop they just snap off, in both cases be careful not to bend or break the plastic prongs, they have a metal tip.
Lift the dash cover (the piece closest to the windshield). This is a PITA because you could break it and it is EXPENSIVE ($180-200). Slide a long flat screwdriver where you feel a little resistance and just twist it gently, that should separate the industrial quality velcro that holds the cover in place, it has no bolts. Use a flashlight to see and understand what you're doing. Work your way gently around, do the corners then work from the center out. When you can lift a bit the whole front (the part closest to you) then reach even deeper there are more velcro attachment points there, there are like 7-8 in all. You can hold it propped up by putting something underneath, like 2 small rolled up towels.
open the glovebox, and remove the screws that holds a tab for the instrument cluster cover and the radio bezel.
Remove or loosen and lower the cover underneath the steering column, above the driver footwell. it has 2 screws in the front and 2 in the back, remove also the fuse box cover so it won't fall down and break.
When this cover is removed you will expose 3 or 4 other bolts that hold the instrument bezel, as well as the ones that hold the radio bezel in place.
Remove the radio bezel by simply sliding it out after you removed the 4 screws. You have to do this because the instrument bezel has a lip that goes under the radio bezel.
Reach under the area of the dash pad and find the 2 screws that hold the top of the instrument bezel. Those are the last ones and should let the piece free. Make sure you identify the proper ones, because there are 2 others that hold the upper part of the dash structure to the chassis and use a stubby screwdriver. Disconnect the plug for the headlight switch.
now that the instrument bezel has been removed, you can remove the hex screws that hold the clear plexiglass cover in place, and you can clean inside the instruments.
Reinstallation is the reverse procedure, just be careful with the dash pad. See where the velcro attachments are and press carefully only in those places, or you can break it.
Hope it helps you!
Last edited by Interceptor1; Mar 21, 2008 at 06:02 PM.
Thanks for all that info thats awesome! Im starting to rethink about the needing to clean part. That sounds like a lot of work and could be pricey if stuff cracks / breaks lol. But I have the info now so I may still tackle it.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
Unless the LT1 is radically different than the LS1 you shouldn't have to remove the entire dash to get at the gauge faces. That's like pulling the engine to change your oil. Nice writeup though.
Thats what I was thinking but it sounds like everything kinda hooks into each other.
Also from 93 to 96 the interior was the same, then they changed from 97 and on to a slightly different style dash and the front where the radio and console is totally different.
Also from 93 to 96 the interior was the same, then they changed from 97 and on to a slightly different style dash and the front where the radio and console is totally different.
Unfortunatly PSU yes the LT1 is Much much different and everything in his write up has to be done in order for you to get to the gauge cluster.
Thats actually a amazingly complete write up on how to do it, its not bad but takes time.
Thats actually a amazingly complete write up on how to do it, its not bad but takes time.
Well, it takes some time so I planned it so I could do several things at once and not have to do it several times.
When I did this I fixed my broken dash pad (with epoxy and fiberglass) and recovered it with vinyl. Also I installed the hardwire in the A-Pillar for my Escort 8500i X50 detector, so now its mounted over the rearview mirror and no cord is visible. Also I replaced the plexi cover with a new one, replaced my BCM and most important, I recovered everything in black suede, I was anxious to get it all back together!
If you disasemble something and plan not to have it bolted back the same day, put the screws of the different assemblies or areas in different sandwich bags and label them so you don't end up with missing or mismatched fasteners. you can also plan ahead and replace your instrument bulbs if you need to, or change your stereo.
When I did this I fixed my broken dash pad (with epoxy and fiberglass) and recovered it with vinyl. Also I installed the hardwire in the A-Pillar for my Escort 8500i X50 detector, so now its mounted over the rearview mirror and no cord is visible. Also I replaced the plexi cover with a new one, replaced my BCM and most important, I recovered everything in black suede, I was anxious to get it all back together!
If you disasemble something and plan not to have it bolted back the same day, put the screws of the different assemblies or areas in different sandwich bags and label them so you don't end up with missing or mismatched fasteners. you can also plan ahead and replace your instrument bulbs if you need to, or change your stereo.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
99TransAmWS6
Parts For Sale
2
Feb 12, 2015 07:23 PM



