Forged LT1 rotating assembly
#1
Forged LT1 rotating assembly
Hello all!
I'm selling a rotating assembly I bought for my turbo LT1 car. I've gone a little different direction and started work on a 550hp series II powered turbo Fiero.
What I have is the following..
Eagle forged 4340 light weight crank (.010 under on the mains brand new, 1ps rear main seal)
Eagle forged 4340 H-Beam rods (5.7in length) WITH the ARP L19 bolts
JE custom forged pistons (-28cc dish)
JE wrist pins and spirolocks (came with the pistons obviously )
Total seal gapless rings (gapless top ring)
Clevite H series rod and main bearings
This rotating assembly is extremely strong and the light weight crank will help the engine REV. Everything is new. No machine work has been done at all so it's completely fresh.
I have about 1900 in this and would like to get 1700 back out. That gives someone a little over a 10% discount which I think is an excellent price for someone and gives me enough back out of it to work on some of the Fiero project and some honey-do's. Please email me at bryan_es@yahoo.com Thanks for the interest.
I'm selling a rotating assembly I bought for my turbo LT1 car. I've gone a little different direction and started work on a 550hp series II powered turbo Fiero.
What I have is the following..
Eagle forged 4340 light weight crank (.010 under on the mains brand new, 1ps rear main seal)
Eagle forged 4340 H-Beam rods (5.7in length) WITH the ARP L19 bolts
JE custom forged pistons (-28cc dish)
JE wrist pins and spirolocks (came with the pistons obviously )
Total seal gapless rings (gapless top ring)
Clevite H series rod and main bearings
This rotating assembly is extremely strong and the light weight crank will help the engine REV. Everything is new. No machine work has been done at all so it's completely fresh.
I have about 1900 in this and would like to get 1700 back out. That gives someone a little over a 10% discount which I think is an excellent price for someone and gives me enough back out of it to work on some of the Fiero project and some honey-do's. Please email me at bryan_es@yahoo.com Thanks for the interest.
#5
.010 on the mains means that the crank has had .010 of an inch of material machined off the crank likely to fix a blemish in the surface. This was done by Eagle at their plant before it was ever shipped.
Before purchasing the crank I did some research on blemish cranks and found that this little material doesn't effect the strength of the crank (per Eagle and every machine shop I asked about it). Often, an undergrind can make the crank stronger by relieving the internal stresses caused by the inside of the crank cooling slower than the outside of the crank.
Every bit of research I've done says the only draw back is that you are already missing .010 of material that could be machined to fix crank damage from a bearing failure, etc. Not a big deal really as 20 and 30 under cranks are not uncommon. If you are interested in the crank, please call Eagle and any machinist you trust to verify this information.
I've had a few people ask me about individual peices and I don't mind selling the componants individaly (matched parts stay in the set).
Before purchasing the crank I did some research on blemish cranks and found that this little material doesn't effect the strength of the crank (per Eagle and every machine shop I asked about it). Often, an undergrind can make the crank stronger by relieving the internal stresses caused by the inside of the crank cooling slower than the outside of the crank.
Every bit of research I've done says the only draw back is that you are already missing .010 of material that could be machined to fix crank damage from a bearing failure, etc. Not a big deal really as 20 and 30 under cranks are not uncommon. If you are interested in the crank, please call Eagle and any machinist you trust to verify this information.
I've had a few people ask me about individual peices and I don't mind selling the componants individaly (matched parts stay in the set).
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