Actually Rob's Dad will be running 7.80's this year @168 'ish...not bad for na 6 cylinder. (650hp w/1.1 60 ft's)

Interesting note....the last time they changed oil manufactures on their race motor (Amsoil to Royal Purple) they blew a HOLE in their block. They determined the problem to be oil related.

Here is his site: http://www.inlinesix.com/

Andy

 

Woops I forgot he hit 7's already. I couldn't remember if it was 7's or 8's.

 

HAHAHA yeah ok Blew a hole in their block, & how does that happen? I'm sorry oil doesn't play a part in keeping holes away from the block, I'm not stupid, & I think I know a little about how an engine works, gaining 9RWHP from oil can only be explained by a few things, they are,

1. the oil must of been really cheap cheap oil that doesn't lube at all, & running this type of oil would damage your engine in no time.
2. The engine is in such rough condition that every oil change in gains HP because oil is an ashes dispersant so all the metal comes out with it.
3. Synthetic oil doesn't burn like regular oil in the combustion chamber so the engine must be burning oil & by burning thinner/less flammible oil they don't have flame when they don't want to in the cc so the result is gain HP.


On a good motor you shouldn't see any HP gain from switching manufacturers, I admit that regular oil will lower your HP at RPM's above 6,000 because its burns off too easily & doesn't leave that protective film of oil on the cylinder walls at such high rpms cuz it can't keep up, so you use good synthetic oil, but I warn you that this HP loss at high rpms is caused by engine parts rubbing & in no time the rings will be shot & cylinder walls scored, so yeah don't use cheap oil reving past 6krpm.

But Synthetic oil does a creat job in lubing the motor at rpms past 6k so if it does its job & your rings aren't running dry than by switching to a diferent oil wont' result in power gains.


Its hard to explain without going into the science of HP distribution for a conventional resip engine but thats the jist of it.

 

Some how I don't think Robs Dad would be bullsh!ting us about oil...he knows his stuff. His parts are expensive (the head alone cost $30,000) and it's highly unlikely that he woud have dirty oil in there. He's done EXTENSIVE testing and there is a substantial difference between oil brands. Saying all oils are the same is like saying a hot 20 year old chick is going to get ya as hot as a 90 year old grandma. You get what you pay for...

Andy

PS= He was certain that the engine failure wouldn't have happened if he had been using Amsoil.

 

heres one example of how it can be an oil related problem to engine failure...............1. rod bearing doesnt get adequate lubing by oil through whatever reason (viscosity brakedown etc. etc.) 2. rod bearing catches and spins. 3. next catastrophic engine failure occures cuz its a 650hp revving to the sky 6cyl racing engine, and sends the rod through the block. makes sence to me. ive been in racing many years now, and seen alot. and that can happen believe me

 

I'm not doubting that "HE" gained 11rwhp but I'm doubting what was said about 9RWHP out of a regular engine. Harrisons engine might have gained power because its a small engine making big power & its probably got massive combustion temperatures with his what, 16:1 compression ? Yeah in that case he's burning off everything that gets on the cylinder walls, by having more MOLY in the oil it'll help the oil stick & stay at higher temperatures, I'm not saying that the oil is the same as the rest, sure it might be better, but for a regular high performance engine that won't make a lick of difference, if the oil you are using is sufficient from keeping everything lubed up, than by switching brands you won't gain any HP.

In stupid terms:

Harrison's engine "AS COMPARED TO AMSOIL OIL":

regular oil - 40RWHP LOSS & ENGINE IS ABOUT TO BLOW
MOBIL 1 - 15RWHP LOSS engine is unhappy
AMSOIL 0HP LOSS

FUTURE BETTER THAN AMSOIL OIL:
AMSOIL 10RWHP LOSS
FUTURE BETTER THAN AMSOIL OIL 0HP LOSS

FUTURE SUPER SUPER OIL:
FUTUER BETTER THAN AMSOIL OIL - 5RWHP LOSS
FUTURE SUPER SUPER OIL - 0HP LOSS


LT1 HEADS/CAM 383 "as compared to AMSOIL OIL"
Regular oil - 3rwhp loss
Mobil 1 - 0 hp loss
Amsoil - 0 hp loss
super future oil - 0 hp loss
future super super oil - 0 hp loss


Get the point???? for a regular motor than doesn't suffer from excesive heat & extreme RPM's while maintaning a small engine displacement area to distribute heat you don't gain any HP past a good oil.

Harrisons engine will continue to see a benifit with new oils because its suffering from lack of engine displacement area & excesive combustion temps & extreme rpms.


For us, its a waste of money to buy anything other than a good mobil 1 or Castrol syntec, most of what we gain from even cheap regular oil is a clean enigne with no oil residue which equates to longer life because you are keeping the bearings free of such residue & proper lubrication, but I wouldn't recommend regular oil for cars doing 6krpm + on a regular baisis. Plus you'll gain that 3rwhp in most cases going to synthetic. But going extremem is a waste of money on our engines.

 

Yeah thats what I mean, you can have a hole from lack of lubrication but only someone like Harrison would have such a problem from oil, but you don't get a hole in the block while everything else is still fine, and thats what was said, "a hole in the block" no mention of other engine parts blowing up, cuz that is an obvisios reason for lack of lubrication or bad assembly.

 

Well i myself will stick with the Amsoil. Which is what i have used since i bought my SS new. Plus you can get it dirrect from amsoil.Or they will tell you the where the nearest dealer to you is.I paid less than 5 bucks a Qt. For there best 5W 30 synthetic oil.I would say in my area that it a pretty comparative priceing. Most places like Wallmart or K-Mart have Mobil-1 or Castrol synthetic oils for around the same price with usually not more than 20 cents a QT.price differance.But to each there own.Just my .02 cents worth. Hope your happy with whatever one you chose. Thanks. Mike....

 

Another question I keep meaning to ask but forget, what type is Amsoil synthetic? category wise, is it Type III or type IV?

I know Walmart Tech 2000 synthetic is Quaker State oil with a different sticker on it pretty much but Quaker state is a Type III oil which is basicly DINO oil thats been HYDRO-PROCESSED, but Mobile 1 is a type IV oil which is made from PAO, ester resins, and other base stocks and is 'assembled' into synthetic oil, that is 10 times better oil than hydroprocessed miniral oil, that is their new SyperSyn formula that Mobile 1 has.


I belive Mobil sued Castrol for calling their oil synthetic since its really not synthetic at all, & neither is Quaker, but the judge dismissed the case & they got to keep the name "SYNTHETIC" obvioiusly better than regular oil but just not the same.

 

OK, now that we have all voiced our opinins on what type of oil we use, how about what weight you use. I use 15w40.

 

I use 5W30, now for a car like your newly rebuilt 355, I would use 0W30.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by bunker
[B]Another question I keep meaning to ask but forget, what type is Amsoil synthetic? category wise, is it Type III or type IV?

I would say go to there web site and that should tell you everything you want to know.If not call the 800 # and have them break it down to you. Which i know they will.Thanks. Mike...

 

Well I bought Redline 5W30 motor oil and installed it. What a difference, things seem to run much smoother and quieter. I am impressed, as I was a little skeptical to the "real" improvements of sythentic oil. I am truely impressed........

 

You definetly notice the sythetic difference, most of it is how smooth your idle is, but when you switch brands I never notice a thing, sometimes I think the sythetic difference is all in my head but I doubt it I know it makes no difference in my Firefly.