Going bigger better and stronger....
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,419
From: Coquitlam, British Columbia
I've talked to ARE this morning and for 6100.00 shipped with my core I would get the 382 stroker with stage 3 heads and cam.....fully forged, I'm getting the Holley intake from Mike then I'm sending out the intake to Ontario and there gonna drill it for diret port...I know what your saying about the stroker Kurtis but I've been researching this for awhile and it seems thought this would be the best for me....can I ask you why you feel that way....share your input...
thanks;
Mike
thanks;
Mike
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 806
From: White Rock,BC,Canada
Just make sure to save $2000 for a rear end. Adding all that power, and hopefully some traction will kill the rear end. Why not just buy an aluminum block and be done with it mike? 
. Its lighter. And while youre at it replace the stock fans with lighter/stronger ones.... I still need one more stock fan 
.
Good Luck
CoryM
. Its lighter. And while youre at it replace the stock fans with lighter/stronger ones.... I still need one more stock fan .Good Luck
CoryM
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Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 555
From: Yakima WA
The LS1 is an amazing engine out of the box no doubt, but one of its downfalls is its tiny 3.90" Bore (3.905" in a rebuilt motor like you're doing). The larger bore unshrouds the valves, effectively allowing the heads/valves flow more. You are still getting the cubic inch advantage (388" taken out to 4.125 bore) , and now are also gaining the unshrouding of the valves. Search around LS1Tech.com in the Internal Engine section. And see what you find. The stroker cars are fine and dandy, but the big bore motors are the ones putting up the numbers.
There are alot of other intricacies to this, but a larger bore will nearly always be better then more stroke. I would only add stroke when its not possible to increase bore size any further (ie an LT1 where anything over ~4.040 is playing with fire for wall integrity). The breaking point of this is about 4.60" where the flame can't travel fast enough to burn all of the air/fuel mixture in the entire cylinder
Feel free to give me a call if ya want. (509)961-2373.
There are alot of other intricacies to this, but a larger bore will nearly always be better then more stroke. I would only add stroke when its not possible to increase bore size any further (ie an LT1 where anything over ~4.040 is playing with fire for wall integrity). The breaking point of this is about 4.60" where the flame can't travel fast enough to burn all of the air/fuel mixture in the entire cylinder
Feel free to give me a call if ya want. (509)961-2373.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,419
From: Coquitlam, British Columbia
Originally posted by KTamez
The LS1 is an amazing engine out of the box no doubt, but one of its downfalls is its tiny 3.90" Bore (3.905" in a rebuilt motor like you're doing). The larger bore unshrouds the valves, effectively allowing the heads/valves flow more. You are still getting the cubic inch advantage (388" taken out to 4.125 bore) , and now are also gaining the unshrouding of the valves. Search around LS1Tech.com in the Internal Engine section. And see what you find. The stroker cars are fine and dandy, but the big bore motors are the ones putting up the numbers.
There are alot of other intricacies to this, but a larger bore will nearly always be better then more stroke. I would only add stroke when its not possible to increase bore size any further (ie an LT1 where anything over ~4.040 is playing with fire for wall integrity). The breaking point of this is about 4.60" where the flame can't travel fast enough to burn all of the air/fuel mixture in the entire cylinder
Feel free to give me a call if ya want. (509)961-2373.
The LS1 is an amazing engine out of the box no doubt, but one of its downfalls is its tiny 3.90" Bore (3.905" in a rebuilt motor like you're doing). The larger bore unshrouds the valves, effectively allowing the heads/valves flow more. You are still getting the cubic inch advantage (388" taken out to 4.125 bore) , and now are also gaining the unshrouding of the valves. Search around LS1Tech.com in the Internal Engine section. And see what you find. The stroker cars are fine and dandy, but the big bore motors are the ones putting up the numbers.
There are alot of other intricacies to this, but a larger bore will nearly always be better then more stroke. I would only add stroke when its not possible to increase bore size any further (ie an LT1 where anything over ~4.040 is playing with fire for wall integrity). The breaking point of this is about 4.60" where the flame can't travel fast enough to burn all of the air/fuel mixture in the entire cylinder
Feel free to give me a call if ya want. (509)961-2373.
Thanks Kurtis....can I cut an paste this to LS1tech.com and ARE? You made some very good points...I'll call ya after I get some more info...
Cory...it is an alloy block..as for cooling...Stealth is getting me the SLP hi flow rad...
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 555
From: Yakima WA
No problem at all, go right ahead.
Just keep in mind nothing is absolute. You mention using nitrous. How much? Now you're looking at pushing a stock crank to its edge.
I honestly think you can make enough power with a Big Bore, Long rod, Short Compression height piston (LIGHT!), that you won't need the nitrous. Put a solid roller in, and you'll be knocking on the 500rwhp door. Also see if ARE will do another Offset Ground Crank, and what the cost is. Nice way to pickup ~10ci using the stock crank.
Good luck!
Just keep in mind nothing is absolute. You mention using nitrous. How much? Now you're looking at pushing a stock crank to its edge.
I honestly think you can make enough power with a Big Bore, Long rod, Short Compression height piston (LIGHT!
), that you won't need the nitrous. Put a solid roller in, and you'll be knocking on the 500rwhp door. Also see if ARE will do another Offset Ground Crank, and what the cost is. Nice way to pickup ~10ci using the stock crank.Good luck!
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,087
From: Calgary Alberta Canada
Mike,
because ARE is in canada, how are they about the prices? Is it cheaper than others because of them being in Canada, and is that $6000 CDN? Probably not ehhh? How about shipping a motor to Ont?
Andy
because ARE is in canada, how are they about the prices? Is it cheaper than others because of them being in Canada, and is that $6000 CDN? Probably not ehhh? How about shipping a motor to Ont?
Andy
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 555
From: Yakima WA
well dude, being the bearer of good news:
That IS a big bore motor with a stock crank.
Maybe I'm missing something but you're several grand below the prices they're advertising online. Nothing wrong with that, but I'd make sure on what you're getting and for how much. I know they have 10% off this month, but Theres a difference measured in $1000's here...
That IS a big bore motor with a stock crank.
Maybe I'm missing something but you're several grand below the prices they're advertising online. Nothing wrong with that, but I'd make sure on what you're getting and for how much. I know they have 10% off this month, but Theres a difference measured in $1000's here...
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,419
From: Coquitlam, British Columbia
Originally posted by oldschool
Mike,
because ARE is in canada, how are they about the prices? Is it cheaper than others because of them being in Canada, and is that $6000 CDN? Probably not ehhh? How about shipping a motor to Ont?
Andy
Mike,
because ARE is in canada, how are they about the prices? Is it cheaper than others because of them being in Canada, and is that $6000 CDN? Probably not ehhh? How about shipping a motor to Ont?
Andy
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,305
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aparently Mike talked the guy into donig this very well, its all forged as I hear, & Cory, ALL LS1'S ARE ALLUMINUM!!! Yeah Mike that is a big bore motor with stock crank size, hope its forged like they claim
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,419
From: Coquitlam, British Columbia
Originally posted by KTamez
well dude, being the bearer of good news:
That IS a big bore motor with a stock crank.
Maybe I'm missing something but you're several grand below the prices they're advertising online. Nothing wrong with that, but I'd make sure on what you're getting and for how much. I know they have 10% off this month, but Theres a difference measured in $1000's here...
well dude, being the bearer of good news:
That IS a big bore motor with a stock crank.
Maybe I'm missing something but you're several grand below the prices they're advertising online. Nothing wrong with that, but I'd make sure on what you're getting and for how much. I know they have 10% off this month, but Theres a difference measured in $1000's here...
This is the fax I recieved this morning....
Resleeved LS1 Aluminum Block w ARP Main Studs
Finished Bore 4.100¡ª4.125 x 3.622 Stroke
Lunati 4340 Connecting Rods 6.125
Ross Flat Top Forged Pistons with Valve Reliefs (.650+ Lift Cams)
Childs and Albert File Fit Ring Set
Clevite H Series Race Bearings
Choice of Cam
Rotating Assembly Fully Balanced
Engine Blueprinted
Fully Assembled Short Block
$ 6251.00 USD (Exchange)
Stage 3 heads add: 1200.00 USD Bought at a later date
Last edited by sleeperZragtop; Jun 11, 2003 at 07:33 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 555
From: Yakima WA
OK that makes more sense. Its not $6100, Its $8400 including the stage 3 heads. Its not going to be a forged crank for that kind of money. Its a STOCK crank, that has been checked out etc.
If you need anything just call or email me as I won't be posting back in this thread.
If you need anything just call or email me as I won't be posting back in this thread.
