I've decided to go with a wet kit so I don't have the added thought of never getting enough fuel. Plus since I'm very new at this I want the installation to be as easy as possible. My problem is I have a 3000rpm Vig. stall and I'm not sure how to get the full potential out of atleast 100 shot with the stall. Should I stick with a WOT activation or get a window switch for like 3500 rpms so I can grab traction before the nitrous hits? Another question I already asked in LT1 tech. I can't decide between 3.42's or 3.73's. I've been told 3.73's are much more fun and just better for the sotp increase. But I'm wondering if that will be too much gear for the NO2? I don't want to have severe traction issues every time I want to hit the juice. I have a feeling I will have a problem with traction enough as it is after the gear change alone. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Well, you need the WOT switch either way. If all you had was a window switch and you had the N2O activated, it would stay on anytime you were over where the WS was set. What if you had to back off or at the end of a run? And I think a WS is vital, unless you have an excess of traction. Gives you a lot more control over the nitrous and is a safety factor in case you hit your rev limiter. You don't want the N2O on when you hit the rev limiter.

Rich Krause

 

Thanks for clearing that up. I wasn't thinking when I said WS instead of WOT switch. I meant if I hit WOT I thought of getting a switch to hit the nitrous when I reached a certain rpm, not hit it as soon as I was at full throttle. I was thinking with the stall and soon to have gears I would never be able to get traction. If a window switch is recommended, then what rpm should I get it for?

 

I encountered the same problem when I got my NX kit installed. I have a 3000 stall aswell. My installer advised me to just do a WOT switch and a pill to cut it off. So now I don't have a pill to cut on, just hammer it and it will cut itself off. Worked great so far.

 

The WS allows you to set an "on" and an "off" rpm, a "window". The commonly used MSD uses small "modules" like these http://www.msdpromag.com/images2/8743.jpg and the unit looks like this http://www.racenet.net/image/msd-8956.jpg

You need to get a couple of sets to bracket potential on and off points. In your case, 3,000-3,900 and another set which brackets your redline/shift point. I think it's essential, though lots of people don't use one. Major damage can result if you hit the rev limiter with the N2O on. Ever see a "nitrous backfire"? I have seen an intake manifole go right through a hood and an air cleaner put a hella big dent in a fender when an N2O backfire occurred. Not pretty.

I know how tight mod money can be, but it's up to you if you want a "ghetto" nitrous system or one done right

Rich Krause

 

I run a WOT switch and a windowswitch
run both and use the window switch to adjust how soon u can traction wise have the n2o come in.

 

No offense.. because i like everything your doing.. and i do have experience with the LT1 .. as both cars have had Nos..
yu pose an interesting point.. you'll haveto have Drag radials.. this is a must.. i had excellent tires ..and my Stall put me sideways in second and third.. before. the big mods.. i drove right from the tranny shop to the Tire Store and bought them

every say BFG.. well 500mile vs 15 thosand,, no rain driving vs good ran driving.. and good handling,, very surprising

and the difference one you have a stall .. to negligable to worry about...1 maybe.. wow.. i think the nos will make up for that

the longtubes will come in just about right as your stall is releasing..

i'd go this route.. keep the 3.42.. the Lt1 is a bit more torquey.... do the drag radials .. hell Nitto 275's are 160 installed.. and don't pay a dime more..

Get a nos controller.. so you can up your nos.. but it will start at 50-70 then ramp up over a couple of seconds..

this will be the absolute correct thing to do

3.73 are cool.. but on the Lt1. i 'm not sure.. really.. you'll have nos.LT's coming
a few extra bolt- on and you golden
and using a controller more if you choose and the dr's will hook by full Nos blast( or be hooked already i what i mean)

the controller gives you great freedom over the nos.. forget about the window.. thats not the right way.. thats the old way..

youobviosly went for the better safer system.. don't wimp out now

you'll kick butt,, damn even go upto 200(n20) for a short period.. you can do alot with a nos controller.. wet kit.. definetly the CONTROLLER

i didn't read any other responses..

but trust me i've seen it in my buddies car

and its awesome..and he is an Automatic autocrosser.. imagine that.. and it works

good luck and don't be cheap.. unless money is real tight,,
remeber we got some badass import coming.. and some already hear.. and every year we get slower


good luck dude

 

Thanks for the help, but you kinda confused me.

 

I think what he is saying is that if you have the money, buy a Nitrous Progressive controller. It will allow you to tune in the nitrous hit. Instead of on/off, its 'bring it in gradually'. With the correct tuning, you could go with a bigger overall shot because you could add the full shot when the car can take it and its not all at once so your drivetrain will like it better. I am going to go with a nitrous controller with my NOS 5151 on my 88 IROC.

 

thanks for the interpretation.. i thought it made sense.. but ohwel..
don't forget the Dr's..even witha 50-75 shot once te stall letsgo.. at Wot.. it will be an e ticket ride..

The controler is the answer to alll nos related problems.. ramping up you hp shot is fantastic.. and proven in Automatic autocrossers.



i prois you you be a happy camper.. set 200 shott nozzles..and se what percentage.. over what time you like.

now listen carefully the Lt1 DOE NOT respond to the sme hp shot as thels1.. this is a fact unless you have head work and cam work. 200 is defnitly not excesive. if used fr a short period via the controller

Like i sid the widow.. is old news.. the controller will be significantly faster..

regards