wanna add N2O- need some advice
To start off- I have a 2000ss Camaro (m6), bone stock.
I want to put N2O in but I don't know where to begin. I read that my car can hold a 125 shot. Is that true?
Anyway- need help with everything
-What kit NOS or NX? and all of the bells and whistles to go with it
-Did anyone ever use the NX MAF plate? good/bad?
-Also, is there a site that I can go to that will help me tune the N2O to 'my' car so I don't hurt her?
Any advice you guys can give would be a great help - since I have a clue about this stuff.
Thanks Again -- J
I want to put N2O in but I don't know where to begin. I read that my car can hold a 125 shot. Is that true?
Anyway- need help with everything
-What kit NOS or NX? and all of the bells and whistles to go with it
-Did anyone ever use the NX MAF plate? good/bad?
-Also, is there a site that I can go to that will help me tune the N2O to 'my' car so I don't hurt her?
Any advice you guys can give would be a great help - since I have a clue about this stuff.
Thanks Again -- J
id suggest heavy reading, and a good do it your self jobber. i am pretty mechanically, and i did it all myself. it can be done...
------------------
Scott Parkinson
2001 Sunset Orange Z-28
SLP Loud Mouth Cat-Back Exhaust, LS1 Motorsports Intake Bellow, K&N Filter, MTI Clear Air Lid, Mass Air, 160 Thermistat, Power Programmer, 8.5mm Plug Wires, BMR Sway Bars, BMR STB, Competition Engineering Frame Ties, Lakewood LCA's and Panhard Rod, 125 hp Shot. Runnin low 12's all day.
------------------
Scott Parkinson
2001 Sunset Orange Z-28
SLP Loud Mouth Cat-Back Exhaust, LS1 Motorsports Intake Bellow, K&N Filter, MTI Clear Air Lid, Mass Air, 160 Thermistat, Power Programmer, 8.5mm Plug Wires, BMR Sway Bars, BMR STB, Competition Engineering Frame Ties, Lakewood LCA's and Panhard Rod, 125 hp Shot. Runnin low 12's all day.
I like the 100 shot, nice and "safe." Still a pretty good kick in the ***.
All you really need is the nitrous kit (I recommend at wet kit, I'll explain the difference between wet and dry later), a bottle warmer, and a purge kit.
I really like NX stuff, they come with huge solenoids, NOS comes with little dinky ones. Plus the NX nozzle is awesome.
All the jets for your kit will all be measured at bottle pressure being 1000 psi. So if you have the 100 jets in, to get 100 rwhp, your bottle pressure should be around 1000. It's a good idea to have a warmer.
You'll also want to invest in a purge kit. That'll get all the air out of the nitrous line, so when you press the button, nitrous will be right there, so you get a more immediate hit.
A dry kit will shot N20 before the mass airflow sensor. So the MAF picks up more, and colder air coming in, then the fuel injectors put in the extra fuel. I don't like dry, because if one of your injectors locks up, your running on 7 cylinders until you rebuild. It's easier to hide though.
A wet kit will shoot N20 and fuel (from a seperate line off the fuel rail) in together after the MAF. It's much "safer" than a dry kit, and all you have to worry about is fuel pressure coming to the fuel rail, and you wouldn't have to upgrade your injectors after awhile. Most of my friends started out dry with their LS1's, and converted over to wet.
All you really need is the nitrous kit (I recommend at wet kit, I'll explain the difference between wet and dry later), a bottle warmer, and a purge kit.
I really like NX stuff, they come with huge solenoids, NOS comes with little dinky ones. Plus the NX nozzle is awesome.
All the jets for your kit will all be measured at bottle pressure being 1000 psi. So if you have the 100 jets in, to get 100 rwhp, your bottle pressure should be around 1000. It's a good idea to have a warmer.
You'll also want to invest in a purge kit. That'll get all the air out of the nitrous line, so when you press the button, nitrous will be right there, so you get a more immediate hit.
A dry kit will shot N20 before the mass airflow sensor. So the MAF picks up more, and colder air coming in, then the fuel injectors put in the extra fuel. I don't like dry, because if one of your injectors locks up, your running on 7 cylinders until you rebuild. It's easier to hide though.
A wet kit will shoot N20 and fuel (from a seperate line off the fuel rail) in together after the MAF. It's much "safer" than a dry kit, and all you have to worry about is fuel pressure coming to the fuel rail, and you wouldn't have to upgrade your injectors after awhile. Most of my friends started out dry with their LS1's, and converted over to wet.
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