N2O Tech Discussion for the use of Nitrous Oxide

Spray on a boosted car.

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Old 01-05-2009, 09:52 PM
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Spray on a boosted car.

So i was just jogging around some ideas and was wondering, heres my future set-up, then ill ask the questions.

Stock Crank
Forged H-Beam or I-Beam Rods
Forged Pistons(Dished, Domed or Flat depending on my needed compression)
Stock Heads with a good head job, new rokcer arms, new springs, new pushrods etc.
Boosted Set-up running anywhere from 6-10#s, not sure on my final turbo decision yet.
Dual Walbro 255lph Pumps, one with hobbs switch
60# injectors
58mm TB +Matching intake manifold

What other parts, ANY, parts that arent listed, would i need to safely have a 100 shot hooked up with this set-up? Just mye thinking and wondering some things. thanks guys
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Old 01-05-2009, 10:40 PM
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Go H-beams, my buddy just snapped an I beam in half it was nasty, ruined the entire short block.

H-beams, I would also go splayed 4 bolt mains. Deffinitly a window switch, fuel pressure switch OR even a A/F cut off switch.

Jay
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Old 01-06-2009, 08:36 AM
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Don't worry about H vs. I beam, it's a trivial distinction. There are good, and not so good, rods with each of the designs. You are on the right track by paying attention to the fuel system, though you probably don't need two pumps. A single 255 is good for close to 700rwhp (M6) if you have enough injector not to have to crank the FP way up. In this case, assuming a wet system (which is like another huge injector) you would be ok with one pump.

I am a big proponent of the idea that most bottom ends are (way) overbuilt. But in this case I would at least have the stock crank inspected and Magnafluxed prior to using it. I would have 4-bolts caps installed as the prior post suggested. The TB won't make a big difference, but it won't hurt anything either. When contemplating this keep in mind the drivetrain. Unless you avoid sticky tires on a prepped surface, the 10-bolt will need to be replaced. If you have an A4, major upgrading will be needed. An M6 may live if you don't do clutch dumps or try to speed shift it, but you will need a clutch in that case. If you have a stock type aluminum driveshaft, it will also need replacement. A stock steel shaft is probably ok. And so on. My point is that it usually costs as much to do the other needed upgrades as to make the hp in the first place. Failure t consider this results in a half-assed or a never finished project.

Rich
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Old 01-06-2009, 02:18 PM
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Yea transmission and suspension work will come later prolly before i ever decide to spray this motor im building. i plan on running about 400 hp with the normal everyday set-up as to not blow the transmission and even then this car wont be out daily. its a weekend warrior kinda deal.
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Old 01-17-2009, 06:01 PM
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I would do all the suggestions rich said. Everything he mentioned is spot on.
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