keep em coming
ty evan

 

im running a mallory 685 also and love it... i spray a 300 shot, and log every time that switch is on with my laptop.

 

The digital6 is the one with internal timing retard...with the 6a or the 6al, you will need to add a seperate retard module....works out to be about the same price as the digital6

 

What software do you run on your laptop? What all does it record?

 

mallory 685 is the best box invented u can pull timing as the nitrous hits and it has the built in window switch and more stuff i dont use lol!! I have the msd coil, but msd does not have box that includes what the 685 does all in one! u just have to get the harness plug that allows u to wire it up and it makes it a piece of cake!

 

The only way to tell how much timing you should pull is with testing, preferably on a dyno but the track will do. Small amounts of nitrous may not need any retard, depending on where your timing is set in the first place. On an LT1, stock timing is aggressive abd probably will need some retard.

rich

 

I may be retarded, but now I have to look over my wiring to make sure I did it right and it only pulls timing when it is spraying ...

I actually dont run my box until I am ready to make an N20 run. I use the bypass connector most of the time since some people were having longevity issues with Mallorys that overheated. I mounted mine in the glove box, and felt the only proper way to keep it cool is to use it only when I am spraying. So far so good, and it seems to be a high quality set up. I was a little disapointed with the wiring directions though, WTF ???

 

I run the digi 6 and have it retard the timing only when the solenoids are energized..

If the mallory is similiar to the digi 6 you just take your 12v that activate your solenoids and run it to the correct wire on the mallory.

I use Nitro Dave's digital window switch which I am very pleased with. Really like the lock out 1st gear option...

Cody

 

How do you have a bypass connector setup? That sounds like a good idea to help with the overheating and longevity problems.

 

It comes with a bypass connector that you can plug in instead of having the ignition wires running through the box. It all comes with the Mallory 685 box.

Really simple to use though. You just unplug the connector from the pigtail coming off of the ignition box, and plug it into the by-pass connector ( Which basically is just 2 wires that loop around, with the proper end on it to plug right into the connector), and your done. The car has to be turned off to do it. But it takes about 20 seconds. If it didn't come with the by-pass connector, I probably never would have mounted the box in my glovebox, but its fast, easy, and a simple solution to the overheating/longevity issues.

Feel free to shoot me an email or anything if you have any more questions though.

 

I have the msd digital 7 programable box it has so many retards its retarded
start retard,launch retard,a retard for each gear,boost retard and every one of them can be ramped. I plan to run a 150 shot next year I guess I will start with 5-6 degrees and see how it likes it

 

Rock ~ Never realized that a digital 7 can do all that. The mallory does Start Retard, window switch, boost retard (Which can be ramped per PSI), rev limiter, two-step, and a couple other small things I am forgetting about ???

Definatly does NOT have a retard for each gear though.

 

hmm how you guys pulling timing with the mallory 685...had mine a few yrs now and lost the books.... someone tell me how?

 

If you monitor the burst knock when engaging nitrous you will see the pcm spark retard automatically in progress. I was asking about placing a longer nitrous line (longer than the fuel line) to the fogger in an attempt to eliminate this moment of knock. A speed shop tuner told me not to bother with a longer line or even spark retard on a 100 hp (or so) shot. He told me that when they tune engines for nitrous in that range, they just use the momentary knock timing retard as the adjustment for spark timing. They have found no value in a longer nitrous line or reducing timing a few degrees. It is just taking away more power. The pcm has already done its job and the additional timing retard for 100 or so hp is a waste. I'm not saying he is right.

 

Go here: http://www.malloryperformance.com/pdf/685_6851.pdf

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