NOS 5176 tips/trick/pics
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,064
From: Dobson, NC
NOS 5176 tips/trick/pics
Just as the title says my kit comes in tommorow, and i just would like to hear some tips and tricks. Im gonna mount the bottle in the center of the hatch, what needs to be done to mount it? Do you have to drop the gas tank b4 u start drilling or anything like that? Is there any tricks to the lines or wiring? Did you have to modify anything or route anything special? I am running the msd 6al box, is the timing easy to wire to the kit? Where did you put the jets and cylinoids? Is there a way to run to bottles? any advie would be helpful. Thanks guys.
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Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,110
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Re: NOS 5176 tips/trick/pics
I just followed the very complete instructions NOS includes with the 5176 kit. I had the "-EO" kit with the electronic WOT control, which simplified things a bit.
If you mean you are putting the bottle on top of the package shelf, you can't drill holes without hitting the tank. It's less than an inch of clearance. Locating the bottle there also exposes to the heat from the sun, which may prove to be a problem on hot summer days.
I put the bottle down in the hatch well, between t-top brackets. If you angle the top of the bottle slightly toward the front of the car, and then roll the discharge to the rear, down at a 45deg angle, so the siphon tube is at the low point, towards the back, you will be OK. Drilled a hole on the side of the hatch well, put a rubber grommet on it and ran the braided SS hose out the left side of the hatch well, up and over the fuel tank, and down to the fuel lines, where they could be clipped together.
The NOS instructions for the booster fuel pump are very good. Follow them exactly. Thess are the only pictures I could find of the pump:
http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/im...otos/axl03.jpg
http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/im...otos/nos02.jpg
N2O line ran up into the engine compartment on the engine side of the fender liner under the brake booster, and the solenoids were mounted to the bracket included with the kit, and the bracket attached using one of the shock tower bolts. This is a VERY old picture of the setup. You can sort of see the solenoids mounted under the shock tower brace.
http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/im...otos/eng01.jpg
http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/im...otos/eng02.jpg
The fan-jet nozzle was mounted in the inlet elbow, pointing up from the bottom, about 45deg off horizontal, on the driver's side.
When wiring up the booster fuel pump, I put the electric relay inside the hatch, under the drivers side t-top holder.... out of sight and protected from damage.
I originally mounted the "arm" switch in the ashtray. Eventually, when I added a heater, remote bottle valve and purge, I made an aluminum panel for the drivers door map pocket, and upgraded the switches. The little lighted blue plastic switch they include is very flimsy, and eventually broke off in my hand in the staging lanes.... not real convenient.
http://cjcfo.fbody.com/members/injun...B/NOSPanel.jpg
Funny, there's a thread slamming NOS for making junk parts, but I bought my NOS 5176 kit a full TEN YEARS ago, and it worked flawlessly for 5 years. Then when I built the stroker, I used most of the parts from the 5176 kit to build a 300HP system, and other than a "preventive maintenance" rebuild on the solenoids, the parts continue to work well. The NOS booster pump in my kit was a Bosch unit from a Porsche Turbo..... so good that I bought a matching Bosch pump to install in the tank, and run it in parallel with my original NOS pump to support 800HP.
This is the original NOS pump, reused in a 300 dry shot application:
http://cjcfo.fbody.com/members/injun.../DCP03553a.jpg
If you mean you are putting the bottle on top of the package shelf, you can't drill holes without hitting the tank. It's less than an inch of clearance. Locating the bottle there also exposes to the heat from the sun, which may prove to be a problem on hot summer days.
I put the bottle down in the hatch well, between t-top brackets. If you angle the top of the bottle slightly toward the front of the car, and then roll the discharge to the rear, down at a 45deg angle, so the siphon tube is at the low point, towards the back, you will be OK. Drilled a hole on the side of the hatch well, put a rubber grommet on it and ran the braided SS hose out the left side of the hatch well, up and over the fuel tank, and down to the fuel lines, where they could be clipped together.
The NOS instructions for the booster fuel pump are very good. Follow them exactly. Thess are the only pictures I could find of the pump:
http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/im...otos/axl03.jpg
http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/im...otos/nos02.jpg
N2O line ran up into the engine compartment on the engine side of the fender liner under the brake booster, and the solenoids were mounted to the bracket included with the kit, and the bracket attached using one of the shock tower bolts. This is a VERY old picture of the setup. You can sort of see the solenoids mounted under the shock tower brace.
http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/im...otos/eng01.jpg
http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/im...otos/eng02.jpg
The fan-jet nozzle was mounted in the inlet elbow, pointing up from the bottom, about 45deg off horizontal, on the driver's side.
When wiring up the booster fuel pump, I put the electric relay inside the hatch, under the drivers side t-top holder.... out of sight and protected from damage.
I originally mounted the "arm" switch in the ashtray. Eventually, when I added a heater, remote bottle valve and purge, I made an aluminum panel for the drivers door map pocket, and upgraded the switches. The little lighted blue plastic switch they include is very flimsy, and eventually broke off in my hand in the staging lanes.... not real convenient.
http://cjcfo.fbody.com/members/injun...B/NOSPanel.jpg
Funny, there's a thread slamming NOS for making junk parts, but I bought my NOS 5176 kit a full TEN YEARS ago, and it worked flawlessly for 5 years. Then when I built the stroker, I used most of the parts from the 5176 kit to build a 300HP system, and other than a "preventive maintenance" rebuild on the solenoids, the parts continue to work well. The NOS booster pump in my kit was a Bosch unit from a Porsche Turbo..... so good that I bought a matching Bosch pump to install in the tank, and run it in parallel with my original NOS pump to support 800HP.
This is the original NOS pump, reused in a 300 dry shot application:
http://cjcfo.fbody.com/members/injun.../DCP03553a.jpg
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,064
From: Dobson, NC
Re: NOS 5176 tips/trick/pics
Awesome good answer. Thanks man. How much can i spray on a forged bottom? Will the fpr push enuff presure for a 200 jet?? Plus will tuning my car again keep the engine safer? How much timing do i need to take out on a 150-200 jet? do u have any more like relly detailed pics? those were good dont get me wrong but i like as many as i can get. thanks.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 796
From: Dallas, TX USA
Re: NOS 5176 tips/trick/pics
I think the best place to put the power shot solenoids is in the trash. it will just save you aggrivation later. Many people have had problems the them i have relpaced them over and over the last one stuck open.
Fred are you using power shot solenoids? how much use do they see? how are you getting a 300shot out of them?
Fred are you using power shot solenoids? how much use do they see? how are you getting a 300shot out of them?
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