I have seen the mallory 685 unit but I am looking for a piece that only does the timing retard features as I plan to use a window switch with gear lockout features which the mallory unit doesn't do.

Ok heres the essential goal, this is more than likely for a A4 LT1 powered f-body, use a N20 outlet window switch which gives me everything that I need except for the timing retard for the nitrous use (I plan to use a 100-150 shot, and I will have a custom tune done so I would need to turn back the timing to stock when the N20 is activated). Only reason I do not want to use the mallory box is because it does not have the lockout features I am looking for, I figured launching NA and using the N20 on 2nd gear and up should help the trans and 10 bolt hold up . So is there such a device that does ONLY timing retarding for nitrous use?

Any help is appreciated or different directions to go, I am a newb to this platform.

 

here is one option

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Another option would be the MSD digital 6 @ ~$350 or the 6AL w/external timing retard modual

 

I know alot of people running 100 shots without any timing retard.

 

That will depend on if you have a custom tune. You can run nitrous on a stock tune w/no retard. But if you have had your timing advanced you will want to be able to at least return it to stock for spray

 

If you don't care to retard the timing, I'd say you need to run an excessively rich mixture with the nitrous. This is the way many factory kits are calibrated anyway, to protect people from themselves. But to gain max hp safely, retarding the timing is the best method and it will also protect your engine from damage due to excessive cylinder pressure.

Rich

 

I also like the MSD Digital 6 (like was mentioned as an option for ya)......if you do happen to go that route, As a recomendation from someone whos used them for a LONG time.... use the MSD inline voltage surge/ radio noise filter(about $30).....for some reason that even MSD dosn't quite understand, the LT1's electrical system seems to have quite a few electrical spikes that can burn out a diode in the MSD box.......Also, connect the Heavy red and the Heavy black wires "directly" to your cars battery positive and neg......many guys try to hook the Heavy black wire to an engine ground , and the heavy red wire to a hot junction (that already has several other connections) ...these are both ways that "commonly" (And I mean VERY Commonly) burn the MSD boxes out.............good luck ....Joe