N2O Tech Discussion for the use of Nitrous Oxide

Nasty Nitrous 383 LT1(step inside)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 24, 2004 | 09:58 PM
  #1  
OBDIICamaro's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 233
From: South Cali.
Nasty Nitrous 383 LT1(step inside)

Ok I am finally getting ready to setup a Nitrous Hog 383, I just had a couple questions. Price right now isnt really a matter but I dont want to break the bank. What is a good setup to run Crank/Rod/Piston?What are my max limits on compression and still being able to spray alot? For parts alone I have about 2500-3000 to toss around. The heads are getting done as we speak by a local racer/builder. With a 2.00/1.60 he said the intake should be high 70s. We are looking to shoot between 200-300 on a regular basis through our proshot fogger. We have a 400/w Brake going in with a 3600 Converter. The cam setup I am looking at is the comps Dur@.050 224-236 | Lift .503-.521 which I have had on some other LT1s and it really liked the nitrous.
Old Oct 24, 2004 | 11:16 PM
  #2  
kmook's Avatar
Advanced Tech Moderator
 
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,262
From: Nashville
Re: Nasty Nitrous 383 LT1(step inside)

Sounds like a good discussion for the Nitrous Forum.
Transfering, thanks.
Old Oct 25, 2004 | 11:54 AM
  #3  
383Z4ME's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 263
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Re: Nasty Nitrous 383 LT1(step inside)

I have been very happy with my Eagle forged crank and used the 6" h-beam Eagle rods. The concensus seems to be that a 5.85" rod allows a slightly thicker piston giving a slightly greater reliability factor when using large doses of nitrous. There are many good piston vendors. I am happy with my SRP's.

The Callies crankshaft is an upgrade to the Eagle but not worth the extra money at these horsepower levels. Oliver makes some billet I-beam rods that save some on block clearancing but cost enough more that they don't seem to be worth the price either. I have read good things about Mahle pistons.

Compression ratio should not be much of an issue at this level. You should calculate dynamic compression for the combination and stay below 9.1 cr. My engine ended up at 11.33 static and 9.089 dynamic. Street driven cars should be below 9.0 for that additional margin of safety.

There is a calculator for this at
http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp

Rick
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbusch22
Forced Induction
6
Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM
bandit383lt4
Parts For Sale
0
Dec 21, 2014 09:12 PM
Lt1son
N2O Tech
0
Nov 25, 2014 01:52 PM
cristian1311
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
4
Nov 23, 2014 02:22 PM
Queens94z28
LT1 Based Engine Tech
5
Nov 20, 2014 06:03 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:41 AM.