Nasty Nitrous 383 LT1(step inside)
Nasty Nitrous 383 LT1(step inside)
Ok I am finally getting ready to setup a Nitrous Hog 383, I just had a couple questions. Price right now isnt really a matter but I dont want to break the bank. What is a good setup to run Crank/Rod/Piston?What are my max limits on compression and still being able to spray alot? For parts alone I have about 2500-3000 to toss around. The heads are getting done as we speak by a local racer/builder. With a 2.00/1.60 he said the intake should be high 70s. We are looking to shoot between 200-300 on a regular basis through our proshot fogger. We have a 400/w Brake going in with a 3600 Converter. The cam setup I am looking at is the comps Dur@.050 224-236 | Lift .503-.521 which I have had on some other LT1s and it really liked the nitrous.
Re: Nasty Nitrous 383 LT1(step inside)
I have been very happy with my Eagle forged crank and used the 6" h-beam Eagle rods. The concensus seems to be that a 5.85" rod allows a slightly thicker piston giving a slightly greater reliability factor when using large doses of nitrous. There are many good piston vendors. I am happy with my SRP's.
The Callies crankshaft is an upgrade to the Eagle but not worth the extra money at these horsepower levels. Oliver makes some billet I-beam rods that save some on block clearancing but cost enough more that they don't seem to be worth the price either. I have read good things about Mahle pistons.
Compression ratio should not be much of an issue at this level. You should calculate dynamic compression for the combination and stay below 9.1 cr. My engine ended up at 11.33 static and 9.089 dynamic. Street driven cars should be below 9.0 for that additional margin of safety.
There is a calculator for this at
http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp
Rick
The Callies crankshaft is an upgrade to the Eagle but not worth the extra money at these horsepower levels. Oliver makes some billet I-beam rods that save some on block clearancing but cost enough more that they don't seem to be worth the price either. I have read good things about Mahle pistons.
Compression ratio should not be much of an issue at this level. You should calculate dynamic compression for the combination and stay below 9.1 cr. My engine ended up at 11.33 static and 9.089 dynamic. Street driven cars should be below 9.0 for that additional margin of safety.
There is a calculator for this at
http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp
Rick
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