I have a 396 w/Lt4 AFR heads with a ported LT4 intake to match with the hooker headers. I plan on running a 200 hp shot from my zex kit. My question is how should i cam the engine? On what level do i make the cam more N2O friendly or just go NA and just add the N2O and not worry about it? My whole assembly is forged and can handle what i'm throwing at it. But before i finish the cam selection what is recommended? I'm not too sure what to do because this is my first N2O engine. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

I have same setup as you got.. Only difference is mine is 383cid.. All forged with top notch quality parts.. What is your AFR's?? I have 210cc competition.. I also will use 200 wet shot (TNT kit).. Cam motion suggested 237/245 dur. 582/592 lift 113 lsa hysrolic roller cam... Its my street/strip car.. But mostly daily.. For that reason I don't choose solid roller cam..

 

Not running yet but hopefully soon. I did a 396 carb engine. Super Victor, Dart 230 head, long tube headers, 11.5:1 compression. Hopeing for it to be streetable with an auto and 4200rpm Vig. converter, 3.73 gear. I use it for Cruising the local scene, auto-x, drag events, and especially for commuting to and from work on nice days.

Cam Motion or any other well-known cam designer is always a good idea if you're willing to make the calls for info.

If you're looking for more of a race vehicle, a WHOLE LOT more camshaft should be used. A lot more rpm up top and horsepower will follow accordingly.

I was setup with the cam below. 254/260 dur. @ .050", 110 lobe sep., Roughly .615/.627 with a 1.6:1 rocker arm ratio. Should rumble pretty good. I was told it would be fine with 50-250hp worth of spray.

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Se...umber=12-773-8

So what are your plans? Daily driver? Race car? Goodluck!

 

Well my heads are the 210's LT4 Racing. The valve sizes are 2.08 1.6. I'm not too sure of the part #. I emailed comp cams and what they recommended is their lt1&lt4 Extreme Fuel injection 292XFI cam. Part # 07-468-8. I've changed the spring to run a hyd roller good to .600 lift. This cam seems pretty good i think- Dur@ 50 is 242 248 .584 .579 lift w/ 1.6 roller rocker. Lobe sep is 113 w/109 intake centerline. I'm running a precision ind 2600 vigilante with a BTE auto 4L60e. I was explained that as long as i don't go over 200hp shot the cam can be all engine. But if i go over 200 i have to have a cam tuned for N2O. My gear ratio for now is 3:23 but i've got a 3:73 but after i get my moser 9" i'll probably stay at 3:55 for hwy and daily driving. I'm hope for 700hp w/ N2O. I think that should be enough to scare the vettes and any slugstangs that happen my way.. Man AutoRoc i'd like to drive with you when you have your car done...that cam is pretty big! It looks like that JustNo and i are on the same path. If you guys ever race thru memphis-look me up!

 

Hey comp cam suggested me same camshaft.. But when I compared with cam motion's suggestion I saw there are difference between durations.. Any way I told comp cam that I want drivability ,so they said that 237/245 will be fine if I want drivability.. So my camshaft become 237/245 dur. and 584/579 lift 113 lsa.. My heads have also 2.08/1.60 valves ..
- Your car is daily car? Or only for drag race? Because if its only for race ,you should definitaly go with solid roller camshaft..If you will go this hydrolic roller camshaft you should change valve springs & related components.. Because 210cc Heads come with solid roller springs (220lbs on seat )
- Did you buy complete package? (lots of people get heads then send them other companies (AI , Lloyd) to porting & to adjust valvetrain.. Because I didn't do that,I bought complete package..And now try to decide which springs should I go,and tired of dealing with this

 

Even if it's a weekend car, you might consider a solid roller. There are lifters available with decend oiling properities that can work for a street car (not cheap, but they are available)

 

I'll have to check that out. I bought the heads used but i did have them changed over to hyd roller springs. Solid lift is not where i want to go for a daily driver. How much was your cam? Where did you buy it at? Comp wants $338 for it. I'm thinking that i can buy it cheaper somewhere else. How does your car idle?

 

Thunderracing assemble my whole engine ,and it isn't finished yet.. (maybe 1-2 weeks more to complete) I didn't do deep search about cheap price of the parts because I pay 16.000$ and stepped back ,and watch the show
- If your car is daily car then I think you should say that to comp cam as I said.. 242/248 is too much duration for a daily car.. Any way I think I will use 26918 beehive springs for my setup.. They are for .600 lift and 584/579 is very close to the limits of springs.. I still make research on it ,and very tired ..
BTW: Once I get the engine there should be no problem.. No valve float or nothing.. I'm from different country so if there is a problem, it will be too difficult to solve that.. (I can't send the engine back)

 

Where are you from? For that price they'd better have it dyno'd and tuned! What's the expected HP output? I did a little research and you're right that's too much duration for a daily driver. I'll step it down a notch. Thanx for the info!

 

From Turkey.. Everything is included in that price (except dyno) I will get whole engine.. A top notch quality short block (Lunati crank,Oliver Rods,Diamond pistons) and other parts to create whole engine (from injectors to flywheel & clutch kit etc.......) for that reason I paid so much $$$ .. I hope at flywheel it will be 530-550 hp.. With carbonfiber driveshaft I hope it will be 450-470 rwhp .. (These numbers are without 200 shot nitrous)
Remember: Because we will use nitrous, I (and you also) MUST use hydra-rev kit.. Thats the most important thing to reduce valve float probability..

 

I agree, solid is probably not a good choice if it's a daily driver. I havent installed my solid yet, but I've been running the CC hydraulic in my sig for about 1-1/2 years - currently, my motor is in the machine shop for a bottom end build-up.

I'd call Cam Motion on the specs as well. Your running a few more cubes, so they may recommend a little larger stick than what JustNO and I are running... when I was checking for solids last year, Cam Motion was under $300. Dunno if they've went up or not, but I'd imagine they are still under $338.00.