More N20 Questions
#1
More N20 Questions
Ive decided I want run nitrous on my 93 z28, but have very little knowledge of it. I plan on running a 150 shot because from what ive read here, it should be safe on a stock block. As for my transmission I have no idea what it can handle. Its a 700r4 with a shift kit and a 3400 stall, everything else about it is stock.
I was also curious if someone knew of a write-up somewhere that explained N02 starting with the extreme basics.
I dont know if its important but here are my current mods: 226/234 AI cam, afr 180cc heads, 58 mm tb, edlebrock intake, hooker longtube headers, loudmouth exhaust.
I was also curious if someone knew of a write-up somewhere that explained N02 starting with the extreme basics.
I dont know if its important but here are my current mods: 226/234 AI cam, afr 180cc heads, 58 mm tb, edlebrock intake, hooker longtube headers, loudmouth exhaust.
#2
Here's some basics>>> http://www.go-fast.org/z28/new_to_nitrous.html On to My advice: Personally, I would purchase a well-proven quality WET type kit from a reputable outfit like www.nitrousoutlet.com .... Such as this system here>>> http://nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/pro...4&product=3906 ................................. From someone who's run several nitrous set-ups on (100% bone-stock "and" heavily modified) LT-1's over the last 12 years.... I would always start out a little on the conservative side, power-wise (Jetting), especially on a stock bottom-end cast-piston LT-1/LT-4 engine, regardless of what "OR" what's not done to it up top (you can always "easily" jet it up later after you confirm it's running good on the smaller shot, and are able to check the plugs after running on the lower setting)....... I would start out at the provided 50 to 100 HP jetting's, and wouldn't really spray much more than a 125 shot "IF" your at all worried about it lasting (150 is fine too, but if engine OR drivetrain breakage would put you in a real bind, I would stay at the slightly more conservative HP settings mentioned, it'll still make a ton of power)........ Some other OPTIONS to consider "IF" you want to make it as safe as possible....would be an aftermarket ignition box(and coil), such as the MSD Digital 6, or the Mallory 685).... These (while many run nitrous "without" an up-graded ignition) will give you a much more reliable (& hotter) spark, which is VERY important to the combustion process with nitrous..... and either will give you the easy ability to dial in the exact amount of ignition retard you want while spraying (some don't bother with this as well, but it is important to keep a safer (higher) detonation threshold)........ And also, (though not quite as important on automatic cars) the aftermarket ignition box's will give you a Rev-Limiter that cuts spark as it's method of Rev-limitation, Rather than a Rev-limiter that "cuts fuel", like the factory one (not a good thing at all when running nitrous) ...... if you go this route, you can simply have your factory limiter raised WAY up so that there's no chance "at all" of it being in the way ............The Mallory box mentioned also has a built-in window switch, so that you can program it to shut off the nitrous in-between your transmissions shifts, as to be a little easier on it's internals......... Nitrous Outlet can recommend a perfect heat-range "and gap" plug for you to use with your AFR 180cc heads).... Also, installing a new fuel filter as cheap insurance, and confirming your current pumps psi & volume (under a FULL LOAD run) just to make certain that your not having any fuel issues....."OR" (if your pumps really old) you could always just upgrade to a 255LPH Racetronix fuel-pump, and their upgraded (more voltage, directly from your alternator) Racetronix wiring-harness for more piece of mind........And of-course a simple FPSS (fuel pressure safety switch), if the Nitrous kit you choose does not come with one.... Simply, this will not let your nitrous solenoid's operate , by the chance that you drop fuel-pressure at any level lower than the level you set it at.......... And a bottle heater will also keep your bottle pressure in the sweet-spot so that you'll have the proper (repeatable) nitrous to fuel ratio........ OR better yet "kit-wise", since it already comes with A LOT of the equipment I mentioned, if you can swing it >>>>> http://nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/pro...4&product=4090 ...............Joe
Last edited by Joe B; 05-15-2010 at 01:02 AM.
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