Low Pressure DP Fogger ?'s
06-25-2003, 09:20 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Barnhart, MO
Posts: 121
Low Pressure DP Fogger ?'s
I would like to install a direct port fogger setup with low pressure jets and a one-gallon fuel cell.
1. Can the carbon cannister and all of its related components (solenoid and loom) be removed for a cleaner and easier setup?
2. How hard is it to tap the intake manifold? I am fairly confident I can do it, but never have tried it.
3. Can the Holley Blue Pump and Regulator support a system between 200-300 hp?
4. If I run a returnless regulator, do I have to use the setup with a little jet on one of its outlets to prevent pressure buildup?
Any advise or experiences are welcome.
Thanks,
Craig
1. Can the carbon cannister and all of its related components (solenoid and loom) be removed for a cleaner and easier setup?
2. How hard is it to tap the intake manifold? I am fairly confident I can do it, but never have tried it.
3. Can the Holley Blue Pump and Regulator support a system between 200-300 hp?
4. If I run a returnless regulator, do I have to use the setup with a little jet on one of its outlets to prevent pressure buildup?
Any advise or experiences are welcome.
Thanks,
Craig
06-25-2003, 12:23 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Grand Rapids, Mi USA
Posts: 409
Craig,
Its not hard to drill and tap your intake but just remember you only have one chance to get it right. I have seen different setups that where trick but the main thing to be careful with is the position and the lenght of your nozzle. Most will drill and tap the intake runner just below the injector which is fine but when your setting or marking the area to be drilled I would recommend you do this with the intake on the motor with all of the items you will have attached to the intake regarding sensors lines and what not. What I mean is your nozzle once installed will be very close to the valve cover and the nozzle it self is some what Y shaped so when you start to screw the nozzle into the runner you must have enought clearance so that the nozzle doesn't hit the valve cover or what not. After you have ***** punched the location you know will be fine to install the nozzle remove the intake from the engine and then drill and tap each location. Just make sure you have the nozzle in hand from what ever nitrous company you go with because each company has different dimesions and lenghts of nozzle per kit. If your using a NOS kit more than likely I would assume so by the indicated power levels your looking to run the kit probably is ussing a Fogger 2 nozzle. This is a really good compacted sized nozzle to use. If you happen to talk with a few other guy's on this board you will notice they have this nozzle. I bealive there is guy by the name of Taner that has the NOS direct port kit that uses these black nozzles I bealive. So have the nozzle in hand when setting up.
As for getting rid of the emmissions items from the intake yes you can get rid of them you will just have to have your ECM reflashed and have the items turned off.
Your running a front mounted fuel cell with a dedicated nitrous pump that a great idea. You probably know everything there is to know about that subject it has been gone over many times on the board before so I leave it at that.
As for running the Holly Blue pump and when I say this you could purchase much better pump than this one. I'm not nocking anyone for using it and maybe people are having success with it but like the old saying goes you pay $100.00 for a pump you get a $100.00 pump! The long and short of it is that the pump just doesn't have the volume to keep up with the system and will lean out and then its time to rotate pistons. Just remeber its not just the nitrous that makes the power but infact the fuel it self is what achieves big power with nitrous. A person number one item that they should alway spend big on is the fuel system for the nitrous. Without this you will not see the gain you should plus not mention what it does to the motor. The one item that without a doubt is the best regulator to use for nitrous on a fogger is the tride and true Holly adjustable blue regulator. This regulator has been the choice to run for the majority of most nitrous guys that are making consistant power. The high buch billet regulators for the most part will not keep the consistancy as will the $20.00 blue Holly. A few trick are done to the regulator from tuners but you can get by with one out of the box.
If you want to see great debate regarding nitrous fuel line bypass setup check this site and seach back in the forum and you will see guys that are running both dead head and air bleed setup and what they have to say. www.gofastzone.com Guys running from 6 second ets on up have great success with both systems. You can decide from there plus not mention in the tech section on the site it will give you instructions on how to set a air bleed system up and with the correct jet size. You would bealive the setups I have seen people recommend on this board its the farthes from the correct size. Its a wonder why people dont make power with nitrous. With your nitrous system if your nocking a second to second and half off your time then the tuneup is off. The jett patterns from the factory are on the fat side for safety and really can be better. But getting a person to give you his winning tuneup would be like pulling teeth!
I been using nitrous for over 7 years and have learned alot about it and in the learning process of it also ruined parts and motors. The only thing I can only say is start small,take your time, and always listen to your engine and what I mean by that is read your plugs and the listen for detonation. Because if the engine has a problem bealive me when I say this nitrous will find it and make it WORSE!
Check the site I recommended to ya those guys are making big power and from time to time some of the nations top nitrous tuners will answere questions there or post some of there information. Bealive me when I say this, to get the knowledge top nitrous tuners have regarding a recommendation for your combination or to set up your system does not come cheap! I know because I just went through it with Jeff Prock at Applied Nitrous Technologies. But this is what makes all the difference in the world when you get to a point that you just can't seem to find anymore power or ET. He setup my fuel system and plumb,flowed and corrected any problems in order to optimize my nitrous kit to it fullest potental. If interested this is a partially finished setup of my LT4 intake he did:
http://www.gofastzone.com/members/Th.../mvc-377s1.jpg
http://www.gofastzone.com/members/Th.../mvc-378s1.jpg
The nitrous kit was custome plumbed by Jeff Prock and it was originally NOS Pro Race Fogger with Stainless Annular Nozzles. The primary nitrous kit is setup and flowed for 600hp. As for the fuel system that is supporting it Jeff recommended going with a Magnaflow Quick Star 500. My fuel cell is located in the area where my battery used to be I have a 1 gallon Jaz cell but if I was you purchase the Triangle cell. And by know means do not cut the cell down just to fit the cell under the hood! Cut the floor out of the battery try so you can use the full 1 gallon.
I hope this little bit helps and good luck!
Jim
Its not hard to drill and tap your intake but just remember you only have one chance to get it right. I have seen different setups that where trick but the main thing to be careful with is the position and the lenght of your nozzle. Most will drill and tap the intake runner just below the injector which is fine but when your setting or marking the area to be drilled I would recommend you do this with the intake on the motor with all of the items you will have attached to the intake regarding sensors lines and what not. What I mean is your nozzle once installed will be very close to the valve cover and the nozzle it self is some what Y shaped so when you start to screw the nozzle into the runner you must have enought clearance so that the nozzle doesn't hit the valve cover or what not. After you have ***** punched the location you know will be fine to install the nozzle remove the intake from the engine and then drill and tap each location. Just make sure you have the nozzle in hand from what ever nitrous company you go with because each company has different dimesions and lenghts of nozzle per kit. If your using a NOS kit more than likely I would assume so by the indicated power levels your looking to run the kit probably is ussing a Fogger 2 nozzle. This is a really good compacted sized nozzle to use. If you happen to talk with a few other guy's on this board you will notice they have this nozzle. I bealive there is guy by the name of Taner that has the NOS direct port kit that uses these black nozzles I bealive. So have the nozzle in hand when setting up.
As for getting rid of the emmissions items from the intake yes you can get rid of them you will just have to have your ECM reflashed and have the items turned off.
Your running a front mounted fuel cell with a dedicated nitrous pump that a great idea. You probably know everything there is to know about that subject it has been gone over many times on the board before so I leave it at that.
As for running the Holly Blue pump and when I say this you could purchase much better pump than this one. I'm not nocking anyone for using it and maybe people are having success with it but like the old saying goes you pay $100.00 for a pump you get a $100.00 pump! The long and short of it is that the pump just doesn't have the volume to keep up with the system and will lean out and then its time to rotate pistons. Just remeber its not just the nitrous that makes the power but infact the fuel it self is what achieves big power with nitrous. A person number one item that they should alway spend big on is the fuel system for the nitrous. Without this you will not see the gain you should plus not mention what it does to the motor. The one item that without a doubt is the best regulator to use for nitrous on a fogger is the tride and true Holly adjustable blue regulator. This regulator has been the choice to run for the majority of most nitrous guys that are making consistant power. The high buch billet regulators for the most part will not keep the consistancy as will the $20.00 blue Holly. A few trick are done to the regulator from tuners but you can get by with one out of the box.
If you want to see great debate regarding nitrous fuel line bypass setup check this site and seach back in the forum and you will see guys that are running both dead head and air bleed setup and what they have to say. www.gofastzone.com Guys running from 6 second ets on up have great success with both systems. You can decide from there plus not mention in the tech section on the site it will give you instructions on how to set a air bleed system up and with the correct jet size. You would bealive the setups I have seen people recommend on this board its the farthes from the correct size. Its a wonder why people dont make power with nitrous. With your nitrous system if your nocking a second to second and half off your time then the tuneup is off. The jett patterns from the factory are on the fat side for safety and really can be better. But getting a person to give you his winning tuneup would be like pulling teeth!
I been using nitrous for over 7 years and have learned alot about it and in the learning process of it also ruined parts and motors. The only thing I can only say is start small,take your time, and always listen to your engine and what I mean by that is read your plugs and the listen for detonation. Because if the engine has a problem bealive me when I say this nitrous will find it and make it WORSE!
Check the site I recommended to ya those guys are making big power and from time to time some of the nations top nitrous tuners will answere questions there or post some of there information. Bealive me when I say this, to get the knowledge top nitrous tuners have regarding a recommendation for your combination or to set up your system does not come cheap! I know because I just went through it with Jeff Prock at Applied Nitrous Technologies. But this is what makes all the difference in the world when you get to a point that you just can't seem to find anymore power or ET. He setup my fuel system and plumb,flowed and corrected any problems in order to optimize my nitrous kit to it fullest potental. If interested this is a partially finished setup of my LT4 intake he did:
http://www.gofastzone.com/members/Th.../mvc-377s1.jpg
http://www.gofastzone.com/members/Th.../mvc-378s1.jpg
The nitrous kit was custome plumbed by Jeff Prock and it was originally NOS Pro Race Fogger with Stainless Annular Nozzles. The primary nitrous kit is setup and flowed for 600hp. As for the fuel system that is supporting it Jeff recommended going with a Magnaflow Quick Star 500. My fuel cell is located in the area where my battery used to be I have a 1 gallon Jaz cell but if I was you purchase the Triangle cell. And by know means do not cut the cell down just to fit the cell under the hood! Cut the floor out of the battery try so you can use the full 1 gallon.
I hope this little bit helps and good luck!
Jim
Last edited by JWINN; 06-25-2003 at 12:41 PM.
06-25-2003, 04:44 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 103
If you're going to be running the fuel cell up front then a blue pump will support more then you could ever probably throw at it. In the front the pump does not have to deal with the g force of acceleration. If you run the pump in the back then that is a diffrent story.
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