Here's the point of the post: wanting to decide whether to go with the N2O or go with turbo/bolton/etc.

So, here are the questions:
1. What's the safest way to add extra power to our engines. By safest I'm refering to engine and car safety. I want to go fast, but I don't want to sacrifice the car.

2. If I got with the N2O and I would put it in the spare wheel well..what happens if I get hit there? will it blow. Also, the inside of the car must reach 150 when parked in the sun..is that going to be a prob?

3. With the mods listed in the signature, what size shot can I run...again safely for the engine and car.

4. If I want to run a bigger shot, what else do I need to change?

5. I read the "new to nitrous" article, very impressive!!! The one thing I don't understang is how you accually use it: when do you fire it? what gear? what happens if you change gears?

Anyways, that's a whole lot of questions...my main concern is to not end up blown up like F&F.

Thanks for any help you can provide...the z is definatly fast enough for the everyday run...I want to be able to have a porsche driver go "WTF just happened "

Cheers,
-MJ

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MJ - 1995 z28
Eibach Lowering Springs, KYB Shocks, K & N Filter Kit, Borla Exhaust, Ground Effects.

 

A strong normally asipirated engine is, IMO, the safest way to go.
I really have no idea, but my guess would be the bottle would crack, the nitrous would shoot out, and the metal in that area would be frozen. I also think 150 degrees is okay, though I haven't done it. The normal pressure is around 1000psi at 90 degrees or so, so I suppose you could use some fancy equation like PV=nRT to figure it out, given that the blowoff cap is supposed to handle some 3000psi.
Stock motor, usually 125-150hp, depending on how daring you want to be.
Just jets. You can get larger or smaller jets direct from your nitrous vendor, or probably from Summit/JEGs, for a couple bucks.
Thanks! I'll have to put something in about "how you fire it". There's a million ways you could set it up, but a typical one has a microswitch attached to your throttle, such that at WOT the solenoids open. So all you do is flip the master on/off switch at the starting line, and when you hit WOT, the juice flows. You should also hook up a window switch that turns it off before red line, but of course if you're letting off the gas when you shift, that microswitch should shut off the juice for a moment.
Didn't see the movie, but yeah !blown up is good.

Dave

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1997 LPE 383/n2o Camaro Z28 Convertible
12.39@112.2, 1.76 60' (na) 11.27@124.6, 1.76 60' (n2o)
LT1 Diagnostics, New to Nitrous? Northern California Racing Club

 

Dave,
Thanks for the info. Still have a couple things I'm not quite clear on:
dump question: what's a normally aspirated engine (did I mention I was also new to beefy v8s?)

I guess my question about the n2o in the spare tire well was more to ask if n2o would explode if cracked or damaged..or exposed to flame/heat?

Would only need to change the fuel injectors if I wanted to run bigger shot? no trans/clutch/suspension/body strength/rear end mods?

so would you fire in say 1 or 2 then run the 1/4 or would you fire at 3 or 4 right before the end of the 1/4?

Lastly...ever hear of anyone who took all the precautions and still mess up their motor/car?

Thanks again for the info.
Cheers,
-MJ

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MJ - 1995 z28
Eibach Lowering Springs, KYB Shocks, K & N Filter Kit, Borla Exhaust, Ground Effects.

 

Normally aspirated is a "regular" engine with no nitrous, no supercharger, no turbo. Your engine right now is normally aspirated (NA). Typical upgrade would be heads and a cam, and you could expect nice gains from it. not coincidentally, it's also the most expensive route you can go, compared to the others.
Yeah, I don't have the final skinny on that one. Nitrous is not explosive, so you're not talking about a ball of flames, but you are carrying around a canister under high pressure. I only have mine in when I go to the track, personally.
Ah, you didn't say that The more power you run through your drivetrain, the more stuff will break. Not just with nitrous, but it can be especially bad with nitrous since it gives a huge torque hit at low RPMs. So yes, you could lose your clutch, your rear end, probably not your tranny. No particular suspension issues. All part of the game of getting more power...
For best results you want nitrous flowing in every gear, through the 1/4 mile. Depending on what tires you use, you may have trouble getting traction in 1st gear, so you could start the nitrous in 2nd. But once you've got traction, no sense shutting it off until you zoom through the traps.
No, not to say it hasn't happened though...

Dave

 

my opinion is that if you want to spray in first then you have to get a 2 stage system, but it will cost more. this isn't made so that every time you hit the button you spray. you just arm it and race. so you get the system and hopefully its a good one (the better the system the safer you are) you predetermine the rpm to start spraying and when to stop and put it in a chip. the reason you have two stages is so that you can spray an amount like 50 shot in first gear and spray 100 shop or what ever in ever other gear

 

Thanks for all the info. starting to feel better about just adding n2o vs. spending thousands on engine upgrades. I mean the v8 is already fast enough to take almost (before you jump down my neck, I know there's plenty faster out there...but I'm yet to loose a stop light battle) anything on the steet...so the n2o is really for the "just in case"

Thanks again for all the good info!!! Now to go pick a system

Cheers,
-MJ

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MJ - 1995 z28
Eibach Lowering Springs, KYB Shocks, K & N Filter Kit, Borla Exhaust, Ground Effects.

 

got some of my questions answered too, thanks. so once you hit the button it's armed then the tps will let it flow at wot. right? just a couple more, typically (sp)? how many sprays (runs) will you get from a 10# bottle? and since I'm an m/6 I really don't need the window switch, or I do to be more safe? thanks in advance. sorry to jump in on your thread!

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93 z28 m6 k&n c.a.i. chip, flowmaster cat back 3:23's

 

You are correct about the tps, and it is tough to say how many runs you can get from a 10lb. bottle because it depends on how big the nitrous jet you are running is. Typically 6-7 runs on a 100-150 shot. The window switch is just a safety precaution and takes the guess work out of hitting the switch at different rpm's. Hope this helps a little.

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1989 Firebird Formula
Emmisions Legal
12.198@112.4

 

I just want to add to Dave's excellent responses that I would never run N2O without a window switch. N2O will likely cause major damage if you hit the rev limiter with it activated or if you activate at too low an engine speed. I have seen it many times. And the last thing you need when shifting into 4th at 100+mph is to worry about hitting a switch. There's already to many things to think about at the track!

Get a window switch, it's cheap insurance.

Rich Krause

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'95 Z-28 383 with Vortech, nitrous, etc.
"1FASTZ28"

 

Can I add .02? I learned an awful lot from these guys on the nitrous sectiion of this forum, Rich , Dave and others. I did my homework put all the safety stuff in that I could think of before testing. Got the system working good, then read some posts about solenoid sticking open!!!! I completely forgot about a FILTER for the N2O. That's the next step for me, plus a N2O pressure gage,At the track I learned a few things too. Simple things like waiting til the car is in the stage beams to purge the line(dropped almost 2 tenths) An indicator of how much nitrous was in the bottle by the size of the fog coming out of the purge line. So you will always be learning things and you can't get it all right the first time. You might blow your engine and you might not. Some things might happen that you don't plan for. I've been running cars for some 30 years off and on(only EFI for the last 2) If you can afford to mod your car then you must be able to afford to gamble on tearing it up One thing is for sure with the nitrous though, When the nitrous kicks in you'll be grinning from ear to ear!!!! For your info my car runs consistant 14.40's on street tires and leaving the line kinda soft. With a 75hp shot it runs constant 13.70's Sort of an indicator as to what you might expect Good Luck and fast times to you
Skip

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Michigan Skip's Flamed 95
95Z28, K&N TPIS 150hp NOS & 27mpg!
MSD 6AL, Window switch,Ford SVO 24# injectors,
2.73's (3.42's to come) Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust
BMR SFC,LCA,STB

[This message has been edited by s_willis (edited August 04, 2002).]