I wanna get nitrous, but I am totally stock except for the small mods in sig. From what I hear, I can do this and I should go with a dry set up. Ok if this is true, what shot can I get? I was told I should get a progressive kit. If so, what brand and how much does it cost to install?

 

im givng you my opinion.

-first off, i would get a WET kit whether you want to run a 50 shot or 200 shot. if this is just for street/strip use, start with a 100 shot and go from there.

-you CAN do this on stock fuel system.

-i personally prefer a button for control, but if you want to spend the $$$, you can buy a progressive.

-and lastly, you can put a kit together for UNDER 400 bucks. from there, the sky is the limit as far as price goes.

 

Aiight cool. I just came back from gm express performance and they told me to forget the progressive stuff. I was also told I could go up to 175 shot with no problems. However I gotta knock out my cats. 769 installed plus 135 for a bottle warmer. Not bad..not bad at all. I was going to port my heads, change my cam and get headers, but the Nitrous route is a lot cheaper. Can you guys give me anything else I should look out for or possibly change. I heard but from someone who doesn't have a Z that I should get a good intake. I have a direct flo lid, is that good enough?

 

I'm not the god of N20 by FAR, but even the best of those who run it on a STOCK bottom end recomend no higher than 150 shot, most even say no higher than 125.

Also, run a WET kit, you do NOT want to run out of fuel or have some mistake happen where you have no fuel. You'll be buying a new motor over a little extra cost of a wet kit.

If you can, try and upgrade your fuel and ignition system.

Walbro fuel pump for fuel, MSD 6al or digital 6 ignition and NGK plugs, (colder)

 

I'm kind of lost. Some say wet some say dry. From what I read either here or www.ls1.com I heard wet kits are designed for carbs and dry for fuel injected. I guess I had to do more research. I hear I will get a better punch with wet, but I can run into more problems with that.

 

ok, heres basically how they work. the WET kit injects both fuel and n2o into your intake through your TB. it works fine but FI cars werent designed to have fuel enter in through the TB or intake. the fuel comes in through you injectors. so consequently with a wet kit, fuel can, if your not careful, puddle up in the intake. then if your car studders or stumbles, you get a backfire, which can cause damage.

with a DRY kit, your basically just spraying n2o through your TB and into your intake. wheres the added fuel come from? your injectors. you have to bump up the psi and most safty geeks get a aftermarket pump AND bigger injectors to ensure the fuel is there. the problem with that is if for some reason the fuel IS NOT there, well, just ask anyone who has leaned out a car what happens to the motor. the tech. term is "detonation". even the word sounds bad.

the statment that WET kits were designed JUST for carbs is incorrect. DRY kits however, ARE INTENDED ONY FOR FI cars.

lastly, from what i hear from people who have tried both, WET kits are more effective and efficient than DRY kits.

i wouldnt, and will never, know

 

COMNBYU

Thanks. You've cleared up a lot for me. I think I am going to stick w/ my original plans. Port the heads, get an angle job, change the cam and get headers.