I keep going over this and i still don't see how the latching relay would relase and return to the open path. I know it will shut down when i remove the ground via WOT switch, but don't see how the latching relay resets it'self.

By the way BlownF1 thanks for all your help. You seem to know your electrical work very well.

 

I'll try to sketch if for you and post it as soon as I get some time here at work. I was away at a seminar all day yesterday and I'm swamped trying to catch up today...

If what you need is what you've already listed in this thread, I'll just use that...otherwise, send me a PM with what you'd specifically like to do.

 

I got curious and pushed actual work aside...LOL! I have a first-draft drawing ready if someone can host it...I don't have easy access to my site from work. Otherwise I'll post tonight or email privately if requested.

White Knight - You've got email to your yahoo account listed in your profile. I hope that helps...I think it'll work for you. Let me know...

 

Hey thanks man. That is freaking awesome. That would have taken me years to come up with. You have been a great help. You didn't have to push work aside. Thanks though I will try to set that circuit up in my electronics class maybe next week and see how it all goes. Do a little testing on it.

 

LOL...glad to help. Let's see....play with nitrous circuit or work...himm, tough decision!

Do you understand how the latch resets now?

 

Yea, I think I get it. I printed it out a couple times and went through it with a marker drawing out where current went. Nice instructions too, helped me follow it out. Basically it bypasses Relay 2 after it has been energized. Then when you cut the power to the third relay you have no juice therefore it turns off the realy--which shuts everything down. And will stay shut off even if you resume WOT since these are normal relays they pop back to open, until you pop that horn button again and energize relay2.




I still am amazed. That just made my day. I have been racking my brain for a while now on how to do this. It's a lot of relays, but all in all fairly simple.

 

If anyone else is interested, I finally got it posted here:

http://members.aol.com/blownf1/nitrous_horn.pdf

 

So i showed my electronics teacher, and he said he's not sure it will work (this is basic electronics mind you--he isn't the real prof of electronics--but he has worked on Boeing electrical systems). He said something about the two (+) inputs on the relay 3. He didn't like that Relay #3 had a wire to it at terminal 87. I see the purpose though, it's not for the + input it's for the ground on relay 4 right?

I think he might have not understood what I was trying to do. He did seem interested and wanted me to test it.

I personally think he is wrong though, i think it will work. I will let you guys know how the testing goes.

 

I haven't tested it myself, and it's always possible that it could require some modifications...however, I've reviewed it repeatedly and it seems solid to me. Wouldn't be the first time I've overlooked something silly though...LOL! Perhaps he's just challenging you to analyze it fully.

I'm not really understanding the question, but just to clarify, the coil of the relay consists of terminals 85 and 86; they are completely isolated internally from the switching terminals 87 and 30. Relay 4 activates when +12V is supplied to pin 86 (the other side of the coil is grounded via terminal 85).

As for the 2 (+) inputs on relay 3, they are the same so there's no issue there.

Let me know when you wire it up...I'm curious enough now that I just might beat you to it, but I don't have the parts here at work. Hmmm...maybe I'll go yank some relays out of the Camaro...LOL!

 

Yea I tried to tell him the positives were the same so it didn't matter. He just got a look on his face and was like, "yea might work". "better test it before you blow your car up". Like I was just going to throw it on and pill it up to a 150 shot.

For sure, if I beat you too it, i'll definately let you know how it all goes. I have been tied up with a ton of tests and our Fuel/Lubricant Research project. I hope to get to it real soon. Maybe even Wed if I can get my hands on some relays.

 

I would end up leaving the N20 switch on, getting into an intersection and honking the horn at some idiot that pulled out infront of me, and then hitting them at full speed WITH nos...

Kind of dangerous if you ask me. I'll stick to a standard button.

 

White Knight - I just finished bread-boarding and testing the circuit and it works exactly as intended/desired.

Once the Nitrous ARM switch AND the WOT switch are activated all you have to do is tap the horn/auxillary button (holding is fine too) and the nitrous will continue to flow until you either release WOT or disarm the master switch.

 

Man you beat me too it. Got to love the breadboard.

 

You would have to be going WOT too. Usually if you are going WOT there is no traffic.