How to build up engine for high N20 shots
How to build up engine for high N20 shots
what do people normally do to build up their engine for a high n20 shot? all i really want my car to be is a big nitrous shot. i ultimatley want a 300 wet shot.
Civic SI motor or Integra GSR, stock internals, seems to be the way to go!
Or if you are a girl, you could build an all forged 4340 setup, 4bolt splayed mains, or a corvette straight 4 block. all the good machining. some coatings cant hurt on the pistons. basically either eagle or scat cranks, eagle or scat Hbeam rods, and JE or Ross pistons but depengind on how deep your wallets, callies dragonslayer crank, or lunati, oliver rods, and ross or mahle pistons
Or if you are a girl, you could build an all forged 4340 setup, 4bolt splayed mains, or a corvette straight 4 block. all the good machining. some coatings cant hurt on the pistons. basically either eagle or scat cranks, eagle or scat Hbeam rods, and JE or Ross pistons but depengind on how deep your wallets, callies dragonslayer crank, or lunati, oliver rods, and ross or mahle pistons
Well, maybe it's stating the obvious. But the answer is to build it really, really strong. Nitrous, especailly when brought in at relative low rpm generates huge cylinder pressures, that's why N2O makes a lot of torque at low rpm, it generates high cylinder pressures. This places mechanical strain on all of the engine components.
To single out one part that must be of the appropriate design and materials for a big nitrous shot, I'd have to pick the piston. Pistons designed for heavy N2O use will have a thick top ring land, a thick crown, and a strong wrist pin. I was inspecting my new JE nitrous/blower pistons the other day, the top ring land looked like it was about 3/8" thick or maybe more (I didn't measure). Looked about twice the thickness of the typical NA piston.
Obviously, the stronger the better for all the parts of a high performance motor, but one area where you probably don't have to go overboard is the rods. That's not to say you don't need good rods, just that they usually fail in tension, not compression. And most nitrous motors (unless all out race motors) don't turn really high rpm. The high cylinder pressure stresses the rods in compression, while high rpm stresses them in tension. So, something on the order of Lunati Pro-Mod or Oliver forged rods would probably be adequate. Even the Eagle H-beam would likely do the trick, though I don't much like Chinese stuff.
I could go on, but that should get you started.
Rich Krause
To single out one part that must be of the appropriate design and materials for a big nitrous shot, I'd have to pick the piston. Pistons designed for heavy N2O use will have a thick top ring land, a thick crown, and a strong wrist pin. I was inspecting my new JE nitrous/blower pistons the other day, the top ring land looked like it was about 3/8" thick or maybe more (I didn't measure). Looked about twice the thickness of the typical NA piston.
Obviously, the stronger the better for all the parts of a high performance motor, but one area where you probably don't have to go overboard is the rods. That's not to say you don't need good rods, just that they usually fail in tension, not compression. And most nitrous motors (unless all out race motors) don't turn really high rpm. The high cylinder pressure stresses the rods in compression, while high rpm stresses them in tension. So, something on the order of Lunati Pro-Mod or Oliver forged rods would probably be adequate. Even the Eagle H-beam would likely do the trick, though I don't much like Chinese stuff.
I could go on, but that should get you started.
Rich Krause
Originally posted by jonaddis84
So you dont think that SRP -16cc pistons would be a good idea for a 300 shot Rich?
So you dont think that SRP -16cc pistons would be a good idea for a 300 shot Rich?
Rich Krause
PN 138106, they are just NA pistons.
If those dont sound good, what would be a good piston that is reasonably priced, doesnt HAVE to be american, cuz I know you are against the Japs, so am I, but Im also on a budget
Thanks rich
If those dont sound good, what would be a good piston that is reasonably priced, doesnt HAVE to be american, cuz I know you are against the Japs, so am I, but Im also on a budget
Thanks rich
Originally posted by jonaddis84
PN 138106, they are just NA pistons.
If those dont sound good, what would be a good piston that is reasonably priced, doesnt HAVE to be american, cuz I know you are against the Japs, so am I, but Im also on a budget
Thanks rich
PN 138106, they are just NA pistons.
If those dont sound good, what would be a good piston that is reasonably priced, doesnt HAVE to be american, cuz I know you are against the Japs, so am I, but Im also on a budget
Thanks rich
Rich Krause
He meant connecting rods. The connecting rod takes a LOT of abuse in any engine. Assuming a built engine with a solid 300hp shot...you want a strong rod. I wouldn't go with an Eagle or Scat H-Beam rod either, I would go with an Oliver Forged or Billet rod, a Lunati Pro-Mod rod like Rich mentioned, or something in that ballpark. After seeing an Eagle H beam come through an oil pan last spring, I am now seeing the point of spending more than $300-500 on a set of rods. The engine which let go was a 406 based SBC( .030+ overbore with 6.125" rods I believe) with a 225 shot in a 3500lb 3rd gen car running 9.90's at 144+mph.
A head with a solid deck(3/4" like an AFR?) and top of the line studs are always good insurance too.
Goodluck
Don't forget about that pesky fuel system.
A head with a solid deck(3/4" like an AFR?) and top of the line studs are always good insurance too.
GoodluckDon't forget about that pesky fuel system.
Originally posted by AutoRoc
He meant connecting rods. The connecting rod takes a LOT of abuse in any engine. Assuming a built engine with a solid 300hp shot...you want a strong rod. I wouldn't go with an Eagle or Scat H-Beam rod either, I would go with an Oliver Forged or Billet rod, a Lunati Pro-Mod rod like Rich mentioned, or something in that ballpark. After seeing an Eagle H beam come through an oil pan last spring, I am now seeing the point of spending more than $300-500 on a set of rods. The engine which let go was a 406 based SBC( .030+ overbore with 6.125" rods I believe) with a 225 shot in a 3500lb 3rd gen car running 9.90's at 144+mph.
A head with a solid deck(3/4" like an AFR?) and top of the line studs are always good insurance too.
Goodluck
Don't forget about that pesky fuel system.
He meant connecting rods. The connecting rod takes a LOT of abuse in any engine. Assuming a built engine with a solid 300hp shot...you want a strong rod. I wouldn't go with an Eagle or Scat H-Beam rod either, I would go with an Oliver Forged or Billet rod, a Lunati Pro-Mod rod like Rich mentioned, or something in that ballpark. After seeing an Eagle H beam come through an oil pan last spring, I am now seeing the point of spending more than $300-500 on a set of rods. The engine which let go was a 406 based SBC( .030+ overbore with 6.125" rods I believe) with a 225 shot in a 3500lb 3rd gen car running 9.90's at 144+mph.
A head with a solid deck(3/4" like an AFR?) and top of the line studs are always good insurance too.
GoodluckDon't forget about that pesky fuel system.
Rich Krause
ok do let me giet this right, lunati pro-mod connecting rods, JE pistons nitrous app., ngk tr6 .035 gapped, and thats it for a 300 shot? i dont need any pushrods or anythin else? also, ive been shopping around on prices and im looking at different things like the rods and pistons and im seeing a whole bunch of numbers and crap, i dont know that much about our engines. im certainly not considered a high end discussion guy, so how do i go out selecting the right piston and rod applications?
Originally posted by Z28RV
ok do let me giet this right, lunati pro-mod connecting rods, JE pistons nitrous app., ngk tr6 .035 gapped, and thats it for a 300 shot? i dont need any pushrods or anythin else? also, ive been shopping around on prices and im looking at different things like the rods and pistons and im seeing a whole bunch of numbers and crap, i dont know that much about our engines. im certainly not considered a high end discussion guy, so how do i go out selecting the right piston and rod applications?
ok do let me giet this right, lunati pro-mod connecting rods, JE pistons nitrous app., ngk tr6 .035 gapped, and thats it for a 300 shot? i dont need any pushrods or anythin else? also, ive been shopping around on prices and im looking at different things like the rods and pistons and im seeing a whole bunch of numbers and crap, i dont know that much about our engines. im certainly not considered a high end discussion guy, so how do i go out selecting the right piston and rod applications?
Anyway, JE pistons (or the SRP equivalent) would be fine as are the Lunati Pro Mod rods. We never talked about cranks, so what do you have in mind? If you are running a radical cam with stiff valve springs you should get a set of premium pushrods, but otherwise there is nothing specific about a nitrous motor that would stress the pushrods.
Rich Krause
If you say, Rich, that the best rods are not required, since they most often fail with tension, then if it is not a really high spinning motor (under 6700) would an Eagle or Scat Hbeam suffice?
Sorry Im intruding on your thread, but I figure you will learn as well from my questions.
Sorry Im intruding on your thread, but I figure you will learn as well from my questions.
o its just a stock motor, slp loudmouth exhaust, asp underdrive and alternator pulleys, and free mods, thats it. im just planning on throwing on a moroso CAI, jet hot long tubes, OR y pipe with borla xr1 muffler and maybe a lt4 hotcam and 1.6 RR's, and of course my nitrous and a stage 3 clutch. also i changed my mind about my shot i figured maybe 300 is kinda high so im going with a 250wet shot. and i guess thats a high enought shot for me. So what should i need for a 250 wet shot?
Originally posted by jonaddis84
If you say, Rich, that the best rods are not required, since they most often fail with tension, then if it is not a really high spinning motor (under 6700) would an Eagle or Scat Hbeam suffice?
Sorry Im intruding on your thread, but I figure you will learn as well from my questions.
If you say, Rich, that the best rods are not required, since they most often fail with tension, then if it is not a really high spinning motor (under 6700) would an Eagle or Scat Hbeam suffice?
Sorry Im intruding on your thread, but I figure you will learn as well from my questions.
As far as 250hp v. 300, not a huge difference. Certainly, at a minimum, you would still need stout pistons. The other stuff would be a bit less critical.
Rich Krause


