N2O Tech Discussion for the use of Nitrous Oxide

Fuel pump...

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Old May 7, 2003 | 08:15 PM
  #16  
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Thanks Glenn,

On the in-line pump what kind of mods doi you have to do to the fuel lines and stuff?
Old May 7, 2003 | 11:45 PM
  #17  
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Originally posted by RUFFIDLNZ
I ran the stock pump with a T-Rex inline pump and was shooting a 200 shot with no problems. I kept the O2s up in the 900 range just to be safe so basically I was running rather rich.

Just a note you can get the Holley to fit in the stock bowl you just have to work at it a bit and use a fine bit of sticky stuff to assure that the top doesnt come off. We did this on a buddy of mine's 93 Z and its still running fine with no problems at all. Just my .02 but if I was you I would go with the inline cause it is much easier to install and will be more than enough for you.

Glenn
The factory pump will choke the in-line pump so the net result will be a higher pressure capability with less drop-off but the overall volume will not increase substantially. If you were to consider an in-line pump the Walbro GSL392 would be a far better choice than the Airtex T-Rex for about the same price.

Your best choice would be to go with the Racetronix F-LT1 pump solution with our without the PnP harness depending on your HP level.

Jack
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Old May 7, 2003 | 11:58 PM
  #18  
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Thanks Jack,

The whole ideal of changing the in take pump really doesn't sit to well with me, but I guess everyone probably feels that way. All though I do thinks that probably the best way to go.
Old May 8, 2003 | 01:56 AM
  #19  
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Originally posted by craigffb
Thanks Jack,

The whole ideal of changing the in take pump really doesn't sit to well with me, but I guess everyone probably feels that way. All though I do thinks that probably the best way to go.
Do it once, do it right! Sometimes the best approach is not the easiest but in the long run it will pay off.

If you get all the info and tools together before you start the job then things tend to move along faster. A couple friends and some suds helps too. Just keep the smokes away from the tank!

Jack
Racetronix

PS I am thinking of including the fuel drain kit that is in our C5 system in our F-FLT1 system as well. This will allow the in-tank pump to drain the tank without the car running. This will make removal of the tank much fasterm safer and easier.
Old May 8, 2003 | 08:34 AM
  #20  
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i would do an in tank pump
Old May 8, 2003 | 09:01 AM
  #21  
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Another vote for intank.

Takes me 15 minutes to get my pump out,and i dont drop the tank .
Old May 8, 2003 | 11:34 AM
  #22  
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Originally posted by RacinLT1
Another vote for intank.

Takes me 15 minutes to get my pump out,and i dont drop the tank .
Did you cut the hole the in the hatch area?
Old May 8, 2003 | 11:49 AM
  #23  
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yes i cut the hole,there was NO way i was dropping a 9" and borla and fight the filler neck to get the stock tank out.

We have used the "acess hole" in about 5 different fbodies,and glad we cut every one.
Old May 8, 2003 | 01:15 PM
  #24  
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Originally posted by RacinLT1
yes i cut the hole,there was NO way i was dropping a 9" and borla and fight the filler neck to get the stock tank out.

We have used the "acess hole" in about 5 different fbodies,and glad we cut every one.
Did you use info you foundon line to cut the "acess hole"? If so do you have the address, or know of any.

Thanks
Old May 8, 2003 | 01:50 PM
  #25  
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sorry wasnt online,friend did it many years ago in his 3rd gen,and we just used it for 4th gen's also.

if you pull the carpet up,you will see "indents" in the floor,we cut between the 2 middle lines and about 12" long front to back.
Old May 8, 2003 | 03:01 PM
  #26  
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Originally posted by RacinLT1
sorry wasnt online,friend did it many years ago in his 3rd gen,and we just used it for 4th gen's also.

if you pull the carpet up,you will see "indents" in the floor,we cut between the 2 middle lines and about 12" long front to back.
How did you cover it back up?
Old May 8, 2003 | 04:56 PM
  #27  
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i just used a piece of sheetmetal cut slightly larger then the hole,and screwed it down with 4 short screws,then just use duct tape/sealing tape to seal it off. Throw the carpet down,noone is any wiser to what has been done.
Old May 8, 2003 | 07:44 PM
  #28  
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I got the Walbro pump off of E-Bay for $99.99 plus shipping, and it includes an install kit with everything needed to install it. The person selling it sells them from his web site for the same price. http://neweraperformanceparts.com He is a good guy to deal with.
As for installation, I will do the hole in the hatch method. A member at Fbody.com (he also posts here under the same usernmae) RamAir95TA made an install guide including exact measurements needed to accurately cut the hole. http://www.worldisround.com/articles/12533/index.html
Old May 8, 2003 | 07:49 PM
  #29  
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Originally posted by a walker
I got the Walbro pump off of E-Bay for $99.99 plus shipping, and it includes an install kit with everything needed to install it. The person selling it sells them from his web site for the same price. http://neweraperformanceparts.com He is a good guy to deal with.
As for installation, I will do the hole in the hatch method. A member at Fbody.com (he also posts here under the same usernmae) RamAir95TA made an install guide including exact measurements needed to accurately cut the hole. http://www.worldisround.com/articles/12533/index.html
Thanks Bro. Let me know how the one from ebay works out for you. I can't see the reasoning behind the whole running the pump off the alt thing and running all the other wireing if the one for $99 goes in with out any problems.
Old May 8, 2003 | 07:55 PM
  #30  
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"walbro 255 lph fuel pump for 82-02 camaro/firebird" ..HAHA

That pump is a GSS340. Not even the 'M' version required for the L98 F-Body cars. The kit shown is for a Ford Mustang. Wrong hose, wiring, sock and mounting hardware.

I guess people will sell anything to unknowing individuals. The Mustang pump & kit is cheaper than the GM version so this might explain his choice for this "global replacement"

Jack
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