Ok my little 305 has been eating a 150 shot for a long time now. 280lbs worth on the 150 setting, 100lbs on the 100 shot level and maybe 80lbs at the 75hp level...It's a Nitrous Express LT1 Wet kit that has been converted to a Stage 6 Carb plate, regulated to 9PSI of fuel and I run 1050psi bottle pressure.

Once full throttle and it's nicely purged, it is turned on and there is typically a small delay before it hits. I used to wait until 2500-3000 rpm to turn it on but no with the converter I do it from a dead stop, however it doesn't seem to "HIT" until 3000-3500rpm..So the car just leaves like normal until 15-30 feet off the line. Shouldn't it be a little more violent? I know this is effecting my 60 foot times and I'd like to figure it out asap.

Could it be ignition related? Fuel related? The solenoid to fuel jet line is about 2 feet long and I thought about it from a pressure standpoint. Maybe it takes the fuel a split second to get from the solenoid to the jet because it's only 9 PSI..does that make sense? Maybe I should make the fuel line as short as possible. That would probably be safer also now that I thought about that. Could it be one of these things? Thanks for anyone who responds!

 

Yes, I've always heard that you want the lines from the solenoids to the jet as short as possible, for this very reason.

Dave

 

Thanks Dave I'm on the case as we speak...Ok well I'm off to sleep in all honesty but you know what I mean.

Could ignition be related possibly? I run a stock ignition, a cheap Proform vac. distributor with a pretty good coil and I tightened the plug gap to around .033'ish to keep it lit with an NGK UR5 plug...1 range colder than stock and typical accel wires.

 

I don't think it's ignition related. Do you have a purge?
Purging before sprayin works wonders. I have a friend with an Opel Vectra running a wet 75-shot w/o purge. I showed him my setup kicking w/purge kicking in at 3000rpm, and he said it really "kicks in" compared to his kit.

 

Yes I purge until everything is nice and frosty...

 

WOW 9psi!

One think you may not understand is recommended fuel psi. Nitrous companys will recommend a psi as a flowing psi. What that means is with the nitrous kit activated and firing the fuel psi should sustain this psi recommend when the kit is in use. If you don't have one go and purchase a fuel flow checker. Once you have it you will be able to flow check the nitrous kit with out dumping raw fuel into the motor. You would be suprised that how many people don't even know what this is and how much of a impact it has on performance.

After you get a handle on what your fuel psi is flowing and not dead heading see how the car runs at that point and I would guess the reason your car isn't really making power is because the fuel psi is WAY TO HIGH! Start by backing down the pressure in 1/4 increments just watch you plugs and tune from them. Don't go below 5 psi flow fuel psi. Start slow and make small changes and you will find your missing power. But like I said start with the fuel psi. Your nitrous line is really short and I would leave your fuel line alone just start by backing fuel psi down.

Good Luck!

 

Yeah I'm only picking up 21 mph with the 150 pills and 18 with the 100 pills...

Am I missing power? Flowing the fuel I understand and I am keeping it pretty rich just to be safe since nobody in the nitrous biz really reccomends 150 on a 305, ya know? Thanks for the info I haven't played with an A/F Guage yet or had it on a dyno with an O2 hookup either but that may be next just for fun...*writes down to hook up A/F Guage that's been in garage for year and a half...* Thanks man.