Dual dry/wet system setup....
Dual dry/wet system setup....
Got some things running around in my head as of late, and wanted to get your opinions.
First off, had to sell the supercharger to fund my new motor. Setup follows,
Forged 383 built for dual stage nitrous shot ranging from 150 per to 250 per. 300-500hp.
3.75' Stroke Crank
5.70' Rods
J&E SRP Pistons, Childs & Albert performance File Fit Rings, 11.5:1 compression with stock 64cc chambered heads with port/numbers below
CM Stage 1x iron heads, 2.02 intake/1.60 exhaust valves
Flow #s are at 28"
Lift Intake Exhaust
100 62 49
200 125 107
300 182 151
400 224 173
500 248 184
600 245 190
CC TS-227XR 227/239 duration, .560"/.577"(1:6RRs) 114lsa
Gasket matched and ported for 58mm TB intake
Holley NOS 58mm TB
50lb flow matched injectors
Anyways to my thoughts. Thinking of running this NOS/Holley kit with a NX solenoid.
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...NOSNS/GM2.html
150 dry shot using the NOS TB....but I'm also planning a wet direct port for the first/second stage or vise-versa. Need to do more research on the implications there. Or, if not a direct port, I'm considering a single stage duel nossle fogger setup to disperse the gas/nitrous mixture better. What, if anything could be wrong with my thoughts on a setup such as this? I won't be doing both for quite some time(probably around a year, and I want to perfect this setup till then. Thanks guys,
Mav
First off, had to sell the supercharger to fund my new motor. Setup follows,
Forged 383 built for dual stage nitrous shot ranging from 150 per to 250 per. 300-500hp.
3.75' Stroke Crank
5.70' Rods
J&E SRP Pistons, Childs & Albert performance File Fit Rings, 11.5:1 compression with stock 64cc chambered heads with port/numbers below
CM Stage 1x iron heads, 2.02 intake/1.60 exhaust valves
Flow #s are at 28"
Lift Intake Exhaust
100 62 49
200 125 107
300 182 151
400 224 173
500 248 184
600 245 190
CC TS-227XR 227/239 duration, .560"/.577"(1:6RRs) 114lsa
Gasket matched and ported for 58mm TB intake
Holley NOS 58mm TB
50lb flow matched injectors
Anyways to my thoughts. Thinking of running this NOS/Holley kit with a NX solenoid.
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...NOSNS/GM2.html
150 dry shot using the NOS TB....but I'm also planning a wet direct port for the first/second stage or vise-versa. Need to do more research on the implications there. Or, if not a direct port, I'm considering a single stage duel nossle fogger setup to disperse the gas/nitrous mixture better. What, if anything could be wrong with my thoughts on a setup such as this? I won't be doing both for quite some time(probably around a year, and I want to perfect this setup till then. Thanks guys,
Mav
Last edited by MadMav; Dec 26, 2004 at 08:15 AM.
Re: Dual dry/wet system setup....
I'm not going from any experience here, but it would seem that you'd have to do the dry shot first. If the dry shot was second, then when it bumped the fuel pressure up, your first shot would become way out of tune, and it might be quite tricky to get the A/F right.
Good luck, sounds like a fun project
Dave
Good luck, sounds like a fun project

Dave
Re: Dual dry/wet system setup....
Sorry, forgot to mention that the wet shot would be running off it's own fuel tank/pump as to not mess with the dry shot in anyway. Still might be fun to tune them both.
Mav
Mav
Re: Dual dry/wet system setup....
Here is what I would recommend.
For best safety & mixture distribution, use a direct port system for the first stage, say at 150-175hp.
Then for a second stage, maybe an additional 75max. Use the dry system in the t-body. You can use your existing (1st stage) wet system to provide the fuel. You can up your jetting in the direct port to compensate. These are naturally overrich anyway. Start w/ bigger fuel jets in the 1st stage & it will be down a few hp on the 1st stage (say 160hp on a 175 shot) Then the second stage will balance it out to your total 175+75. Start conservative on the second stage jetting & work into it. Plan on a multi step retard. Definitely use race fuel if over 175hp, or you are risking cylinder pressure induced detonation.
With this, you have a relatively safe (rich) 1st stage tune for street & hitting the second stage leans it out when you have the good fuel & puts the tune at a leaner mixture for max power. Keep in mind this will only work w/ a relatively small small second stage. If you want an equally big second stage you need 2 wet kits (preferrably a direct port), or better yet get an aftermarket fuel management system so you can inject fuel with the injectors via the computer & run both stages "dry".
Dry systems with (return restrictor type) fuel pressure boosters tend to be less than optimum & lean out on top as the engine consumes more fuel, dropping the pressure. You can get by with tihs on a small shot, but when you start running high outputs, keep the fuel pressure stable, or you will be trying to hit a moving target with tuning.
Work your way up to getting your 1st stage setup properly. Limit it to what your car will hold traction wise in 1st gear on sticky tires. On the street with regular tires you can engage it in second. It is better (easier on the motor & faster) to run a moderate shot for the full run than a massive shot for a few seconds in high gear.
Bring on the 2nd stage in the upper gears as traction allows. Do a lot of plug reading & tuning, starting conservative. Do not fool yourself into thinking pump fuel & no timing retard will get you by.... I've seen & fixed too many cars that people thought they could just throw big jets in.
If you want more power than this (250hp), I suggest you practice & learn for a season to get used to nitrous before going bigger. Expensive parts replacement can result.
Hope this helps.
For best safety & mixture distribution, use a direct port system for the first stage, say at 150-175hp.
Then for a second stage, maybe an additional 75max. Use the dry system in the t-body. You can use your existing (1st stage) wet system to provide the fuel. You can up your jetting in the direct port to compensate. These are naturally overrich anyway. Start w/ bigger fuel jets in the 1st stage & it will be down a few hp on the 1st stage (say 160hp on a 175 shot) Then the second stage will balance it out to your total 175+75. Start conservative on the second stage jetting & work into it. Plan on a multi step retard. Definitely use race fuel if over 175hp, or you are risking cylinder pressure induced detonation.
With this, you have a relatively safe (rich) 1st stage tune for street & hitting the second stage leans it out when you have the good fuel & puts the tune at a leaner mixture for max power. Keep in mind this will only work w/ a relatively small small second stage. If you want an equally big second stage you need 2 wet kits (preferrably a direct port), or better yet get an aftermarket fuel management system so you can inject fuel with the injectors via the computer & run both stages "dry".
Dry systems with (return restrictor type) fuel pressure boosters tend to be less than optimum & lean out on top as the engine consumes more fuel, dropping the pressure. You can get by with tihs on a small shot, but when you start running high outputs, keep the fuel pressure stable, or you will be trying to hit a moving target with tuning.
Work your way up to getting your 1st stage setup properly. Limit it to what your car will hold traction wise in 1st gear on sticky tires. On the street with regular tires you can engage it in second. It is better (easier on the motor & faster) to run a moderate shot for the full run than a massive shot for a few seconds in high gear.
Bring on the 2nd stage in the upper gears as traction allows. Do a lot of plug reading & tuning, starting conservative. Do not fool yourself into thinking pump fuel & no timing retard will get you by.... I've seen & fixed too many cars that people thought they could just throw big jets in.
If you want more power than this (250hp), I suggest you practice & learn for a season to get used to nitrous before going bigger. Expensive parts replacement can result.
Hope this helps.
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