Using a dry NOS kit with a dry N2O setup, using a fan spray nozzle. Which jet size will produce a 75HP increase? Ohh its a 95 LT1 w/intake, cutout, ported TB, no CAt air or egr. factory manifolds.

 

I can't tell you exactly for a 75 shot what jet to use. But when I had a 5176 dry NOS kit they recommend a 42 n20 jet for 85hp setting. You can email NOS for specifics if you need to or just call their tech line.

 

The manual for the sneeky pete says that a .022 is 20HP, a .024 is 25HP, a .026" is 30HP, see the pattern. But thats with the 10oz bottle, I have a 10lb bottle. Cause thats what i have, a sneeky pete kit with a 10lb bottle instead and a fan spray nozzle, i also still have the jet spray nozzle which the maximum is .040" on the hole of the nozzle.

 

I am just curious how you are increasing fuel pressure with that setup for the additional fuel? The sneaky pete is really for carb applications where you are using a very small amount of N20 and jetting the carb richer at all times to make up for fuel.

 

Kick me in my weebos! I know. I just run it like that with no extra fuel. Dangerous, I know. I was looking for a cheap way to get some extra power, the LT1 runs rich at high rpms and speeds, so it runs okay, but still no safety. Thats why I wanted to know if I can spray it thru the MAFS the way i have it. Or should I just keep spraying thru the LT1 elbow? Do you know how I can make it safer? I did dyno 310 RWHP with the .040" hole of the nozzle in the elbow, thats 55RWHP increase from 255RWHP NA.

I think I might end up removing it later on this dec. and just do it the right way. What do you think about the LT1 Holley Nitrous TB?

 

Personally if I was trying to save money and make the system safer I would buy a 90degree fogger nozzle and fuel solenoid off ebay and make it a wet setup. JMO. Good Luck..
Oh as far as the TB goes I personally just don't like dry setups. I did not care for my 5176 kit at all I killed my #8 cylinder with that setup and it was stock jetting never changed a thing. Wet all the way for me from now on. When I dyno'd the car with 5176 system it leaned up signifigantly at activation while the fuel pressure came up and then began to richen back up. This is why I believe I destroyed a piston.

 

Is there a way to raise the fuel pressure with the kit im using? What things will I need? Im poor

 

To make yours increase fuel pressure you need a n2o pressure regulator (I don't know if thats what they are actually called) it regulates the n2o to a lower pressure and then you need a bypass tee (again this is just what I call it) that has a jet in it that bleeds of the right amount of pressure thru this jet and the other side of the tee connects to the fuel pressure regulator. This setup more or less shoots a small amount of n2o to the fuel pressure regulator kicking up fuel pressure accordingly based on the bypass jet size. Maybe someone else can explain it more clearly. Anyway I have both the regulator & bypass valve I would sell cheap. But if you don't go this route go ahead and spray before the MAF, LT1 computers aren't as fast as the LS1's but I got away with spraying my old 355 like this with a 100hp . I like the 5176 on less than 150hp but I would suggest some svo injectors. BTW DO NOT SPRAY THE 75 SHOT BEHIND THE MAF WITHOUT SOME EXTRA FUEL COMING FROM SOMEWHERE!!!

 

FWIW, the same size jet will produce essentially the same hp with any N2O system (wet, dry, plate, nozzle, whatever) provided all the other variables are the same (including bottle pressure, AF ratio, timing, etc. Of course, difference like the spray pattern from the nozzles, where in the intake the N2O is introduced, etc. will have some effect. But these will be relatively minor and should not influence choice of nitrous jets.

If you look at this thread you can see my ideas about nitrous jet size and hp. http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=196996

Rich Krause

 

okay now im lost, which is the front of the MAFS and which is the back? How much for the reg and bypass? Do you have pics of it?
When I had the nozzle on the elbow, the car leaned a bit was still okay, safer than when it went thru the MAFS cause like u said the computer was slow and leaned out worse and got less HP.

 

The front of the MAFS will be closest to the air cleaner. (At least that is how I would look at it.) Don't want to preach but just be careful you really need some additional fuel added somehow or your going to be spending money buying some major engine parts.