what i learned from search:
1)pull timing 2 degrees for every 50 shot; is it really needed? I want to do it right but i dont want to lose 20 rwhp either.
2)everybody here runs 100-150 shots and says its safe, but i just read about a guy that did a 75 shot(didn't pull timing) and destroyed a piston. I want to avoid that scenario(i think thats spelled write).

what i want to do; please give recommendations besides run 100 or 150 shot and that it will be fine.

I want to run a 75 shot, very rarely, maybe 3 trips to the drag strip a year so maybe about ten to twenty runs, if that, on spray without putting car in great jepardy. However i realize that nitrous is like crack and can give your car a heartattack at any time.

I only want to spray third gear, maybe 4th if i can get to it. I normally only run 1/8th mile b/c 1/4 is like an hour away. I plan on killing the spray at 5,000 rpm's to avoid hitting red line (5600 there abouts cant exactly remember). I plan on using a wet kit with a 50 shot first and hopefully moving up to a 75.

Sorry that the thread was so long but I always read that you guys like detail, so i tried. my mods are listed below.

Thank you for you replies and MAN ISNT THIS A GREAT WEBSITE.

 

Pulling timing is a good idea. It won't hurt the N2O power, since the mixture is burning hotter and faster because of the increased O2 concentration.

I doubt that a 75-shot broke a piston because of no timing retard. More likely it ran lean and detonated. There is absolutely no way to totally prevent that possibility.

I think you are being overly conservative on the RPM thing..... If you're running 1/8ths, do you even get into 3rd or 4th gear? You need to spray it off the line (or as soon as you are above 3,000rpm) and make sure you have the traction to support it. Just don't spray anything over a 100-shot below 3,000rpm.

As far as top end, your stock rev limiter is set at 5,800rpm. It cuts fuel, and that's not good. Best thing to do is get the MSD-6AL box and raise the PCM rev limiter to 6,200rpm, and set the MSD rev limiter at 5,800rpm. That will give you a good enough cushion. Nitrous does less damage at high RPM than it might do at low RPM. If you shut it off at 5,000rpm, you're giving up a lot of area under the curve. If you're running an A4, cut the nitrous below your shift points to avoid spraying through the shifts. If you're running an M6, just use lifting throttle shifts and you don't have to worry about spraying through the shifts.

 

thank you; I greatly appretiate the reply and Ill look into a box. By the way nice office; mine just has a desk and a lamp.

 

If i put the pcm rev at 6200 and I put the msd at 5800, what exactly does that mean( what will happen when I spray?). Will this box auotmaticaly cut my nitrous too, or will I still need a switch to cut that as well( window switch or a manual kill switch). And yes I get into third about half way down the track in the 1/8 of mile. I dont want to spray off the line b/c thats alot of stress on the rearend and that would be really hard to get traction as well, and second goes by so fast its ridiculous. I shouldnt run lean b/c well dont our cars run rich from the factory, and plus Im putting a wet kit on there, so there should be planty of fuel there. thanks again for you help

 

As the good doctor (injuneer) said you are being way too conservative. A LT-1 will handle a 100 shot all day long. Get some NGK TR64177's and gap them at 35. The msd box will not cut your nitrous off, it will cut the spark. The one thing you do not want is the pcm to cut the fuel and make your car go lean and detonate. Once the msd box cuts the spark the motor will no longer fire and youw wot switch will cut the nitrous. You also don't have much to worry about on a 100 shot and the stock rear unless you are running huge slicks and hitting low 60 ft times. My stock 10 bolt held a 200 shot and drag radials, but the best 60's I was getting were in the 2.0 range. Pulling timing on a 100 shot really is not necessary with a wet kit. One last thing, you will use a lot more nitrous than you think

 

is it necessary to gap the plugs at .035,how will that make the car run on the street when i'm not using the N20? sorry to hijack

 

Some people claim that they can feel a loss of power N/A but I have seen dyno #'s that contradict that theory. My car feels the same with the plugs gapped at .35

 

After searching some more i have some more questions. A window switch would be used in automatics to kill the nitrous before hitting the rev limiter, while a wot switch would be used in a manual to kill the nitrous while shifting right.

 

exactly

 

sniffin94,
got a ? for you. Im considering buying a cold fusion wet nitrous kit for $430 and a purge system for $65 from a store that sells on ebay, and a window msd switch from jegs for $85. Do these sound like good prices, and is this all I will need besides getting the bottle filled. By the way would you recommend me getting a msd igintion box to pull timing; I mean they are rather expensive $240ish, how much safer is it to use one. Im not tring to be stengy with my money or ? injuneers opinion, Id just want to no how important it is. I not tring to be like MUST SPRAY NOW CANT WAIT. I want to do it right the first time, and be as safe as possible. Oh yeah, if I do get the ignition box how easy is it to put my timing back to stock.

Thanks man you and injuneer are my heros, sorry I have so many questions even after I searched.

 

You'll run lean if you don't jet the N2O correctly. It will have nothing to do with how the stock PCM is programmed. You tune it on nitrous with the jets.