I have heard that both types of N20 induction have their dangers. I would like to know what a person should do to avoid those dangers to minimize the risk associated with using N20.

I've been told that with wet kits, you have to worry about nitrous puddling?


And I've head the with dry kits you have to worry about injectors "locking"

What other dangers are there to watch out for, and how does one get past them?

 

with a WET kit, to ensure you dont encounter "puddling", simply get a purge to make sure the n2o is there and clear the motor out before making a pass. in other words, rev the motor a couple of times before you run to clear out any fuel that might have puddled, then purge, and run.

with a DRY kit, to MAXIMIZE safety, your prolly gonna want to get bigger injectors, aftermarket fuel pump and FPR. the "locking up" your reffering to occurs when the stock injectors are being pushed to their limit. in othe words, your trying to flow too much fuel through them.

personally, i like the WET kits better and would never put a DRY kit on anything i own. i just dont like the whole concept. that, and there alot more expensive- either you buy a kit that already has the injectors, pump, etc which THEY WILL add into the price of the kit, or you end up buying those parts aftermarket and individually. either way , its more expensive. ive also talked to people who have run both and they say that the WET kits were more effective and efficient.


i put my WET kit together for under $400, have dropped a little over a second in the 1/4 SPINNING, and have had ZERO problems. just my opinion

 

The best thing to do is look at what you are using the kit on. Fuel puddling refers to fuel unable to make the twists and turns that it needs to in some of the later manifolds. The nitrous flows through the manifold quickly, but the fuel is unable to make such tight turns and results in fuel puddling in the manifold. As you can figure out this can cause a lean backfire and manifold damage. There are wet kits out for most anything. The term "Locking" the injectors is a bit misleading. The term is that the injectors go "static" which means that the injectors are running at 100% duty cycle and just can't add any more fuel, obviously this means that if keep adding nitrous with no more fuel to add you will run into a lean condition. This is why there are several different ways to tune a dry kit, just as there is a wet. Purging the system etc, are good ideas,,,but they are just ensure that you get nitrous not air as soon as the system is activated. I have run both on several different applications, both are completely safe. If you need any help or tuning help, feel free to let me know

 

Here's a couple of sites that may help to answer your questions.

http://www.toyotacelicas.com/informa...icles/n2o.html

http://www.go-fast.org/z28/new_to_nitrous.html

 

Or try a Venom kit. The smart dry system. I have been spraying the crap out of mine for about 6 months now and I am 1 happy customer.

Jeff

 

A lot of stores are closed because the holidays so I can't hear from them, but I want to know if the direct port setup is a lot more for a wet kit? Or does it come with a wet kit. I am still new to this.

 

A typical wet kit will come with either a nozzle or a plate. A direct port system is going to be a lot more pricey, and not a part of any "kit" that I know of. It's much more of a custom setup.

Dave

 

if u wanna avoid danger of n20.....then dont get it