kandied
what did you buy for the baer brakes? just calipers? rotors?
dual pistons? how much and where did you get them? i really need to upgrade soon.

thanks,
mike

 

its not because they are cross drilled then

 

I am curious, if cross drilling them just hurts the performance...then why do they offer it? Thats like a company offering a more restrictive intake, it just doesn't make sense.

 

but what if the intake had bling

kinda like a spoiler, slows you down. speeds 6 sec cars up.


..they were usefull back in the day when pads outgased

 

Because they look good, and contrary to Treys constant drilling of his theory, they don't hurt performance badly.
I have tried and tried to get my brakes to fade(multiple 100mph+ panic stops in a row), and it just dosent happen. I could still put my passenger into my windshield after heating the brakes if they werent buckled in. People also like to talk about the stress fractures crossdrilled brakes get.....go look at solid rotors, they get em to. The only downside I can see to crossdrilling is a possible fractional loss of stopping distance, most likely something you would never notice.

Also not Trey, that Jeff said the oem rotors still weigh 2 more lbs than the crossdrilled ones, 2 lbs of unsprung weigh is still fairly signifigant

 

thats 8 lbs of unsprun weight. Pretty insignficant.

How many 100-0 stops did you do? At work 50+ stops would absolutely TEAR up a rotor beyond belief.

You have MUCH larger rotors with a MUCH greater thermal capacity.

put the pass through the window? how does that explain heat fade or not. Fade is independant of caliper strength. Heat fade will occur way after the initial "stomp"

The biggest problem IMHO is spending money to get less.

Anyone want to pay for "cool blue" TPI styple intakes for your LS1?

Cross drilling is MUCH more likely to create fractures. I dont feel I have enough knowlege in metalicurgy to explain it, but it was explained to me. Bad idea.

I love it when people try to generalize non-relative issues.

FACTS: Pay more, stop worse, weaker.

 

All unsprung weight is significant

Quote:

How many 100-0 stops did you do? At work 50+ stops would absolutely TEAR up a rotor beyond belief.

around 10, plenty enough to see if they fade

Quote:

You have MUCH larger rotors with a MUCH greater thermal capacity.

true

Quote:

put the pass through the window? how does that explain heat fade or not. Fade is independant of caliper strength. Heat fade will occur way after the initial "stomp"

Have you ever been in a car when the brakes go away? There IS no initial stomp, caliper strength or no, when the brakes completely fade, there is no initial anything except panic

Quote:

The biggest problem IMHO is spending money to get less.
Anyone want to pay for "cool blue" TPI styple intakes for your LS1?

There isnt much cost invloved in stock size crossdrilled rotors, and using them isn't going to hurt the performance in most situations. Believe it or not, some people like to make the car look good to(like a non-functional big block camaro hood

Quote:

Cross drilling is MUCH more likely to create fractures. I dont feel I have enough knowlege in metalicurgy to explain it, but it was explained to me. Bad idea.

I am no metalurgist either, but I do know I have yet to see anyone with crossdrilled rotors that have anymore fractures than a solid rotor.

Quote:

I love it when people try to generalize non-relative issues.

It's almost is bad as when people ask where to get something and people start spouting off about how they don't like the thing even thought an opinion was never asked for

Quote:

FACTS: Pay more, stop worse, weaker.

Pay a tiny bit more, stop a couple inches later, a hair weaker, look much better

 

for my setup it was a no brainer.....very cost effective, stops unbelievable and looks even better.

there were no disadvantages to the setup i purchased. one of the best mods i put on the car.

as far as where to get them. detroit speedworks has pretty good prices on 4thgen equipment and you have someone local to deal with. if you want to save even more do a search on the internet. there are quite a few places that offer pretty great deals.

 

case and point.

 

all i know is i have to worry more about the guy behind me then if i'm going to stop in time....it can get pretty scarry.

definately nice to know you can stop in just about any situation.

 

why do you have center caps and valve caps on your wheels?

same reason I have 18" wheels....looks




0-100 is much easier to 50-0-50-0, which is coincidentally more of a real world situation

In the real world you would never be aware of the difference between drilled and solid either. Make up your mind, we talking about max performance or not?



This will come on a road coarse or somethng of that nature. when doing 100-0-100, but the time you get the rotors cooled and walah, no heat fade- well for the first few seconds at least. With your brakes that are so huge, this is even more so the case.

See last rebuttal




That hood saved me $100. Stock GM hood was $450. this was $350. Its also lighter.

How much was paint and finishing? Regardless of how much it cost, you bought it for looks, you and I both know that.



Look harder

I have, when I started to see the tiny fracures in mine(2 years ago, and they are still the same size now as they were then). I called Baer to bitch. He told me that if I could find any ANY rotors with the same milage as mine had that didnt have comparable fractures, he would replace mine with 14" eradispeeds. Trust me, I looked hard.

case and point.

When you make one, i'll let you know

 

Eric, you are instant on using generalizations. I worked at TRW and saw the data first hand. Rotor mass makes a big differance. Your *** is not a measuring device. I would love to know what justifications you have other than "i threw my passanger out the window" and "its almost the same says my ***"

If you want to stop, this is a good time to close your mouth and open your eyes/ears. I wrote a 3 or 4 page write up with justifications. If you want bling- go for it. If you want to stop, let me know.

 

OK, I'll only make one comment here. No way am I ever putting cross drilled brakes on my race car unless they're cast in like the Porsche rotors. Huge mistake for safety on a road course. They WILL crack faster than a solid rotor. You're just not seeing it for the street and almost certainly never will unless you drive so dangerously that I'd rather not be around while you're on the road.

Only 2 advantages to a cross drilled rotor for racing:

1) Less unsprung weight - get it another way that's safer.
2) Allows water to evacuate braking surface in rainy conditions. I'd rather run slotted rotors if I want to run a specific braking setup for the rain.

I'll leave it at that since this is not the right place to debate this. If anyone reading this really wants to know the background behind my statements do some searches on ls1.com in the autox/rr forum, or here in the same forum, or http://corner-carvers.com/forums/index.php etc. The list is endless.

 

Mike,
I've wondered about water-
how long will water last on those rotors?
after normal driving if I hose my rotors after normal driving the water instantly boils off. Also, Under such wet conditions, you are really limited by ground : tire traction so you cant brake that hard anyway.

 

Trey, you are insistant on making it seem like crossdrilled rotors are the worst thing to ever hit the earth. On 99.9 % of the cars with crossdrilled rotors in the world, there is going to never be a time when the owner says "damn these crossdrilled rotors, I woulda been much better off with the increased performance of a solid rotor"

Have you ever looked into something a little more important to rant about?