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Anyone local have one(1) LT1 head they want to get rid of?

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Old 02-14-2004, 12:42 PM
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Anyone local have one(1) LT1 head they want to get rid of?

Long story made short. I've been working on porting and polishing a set of aluminum LT1 heads as my "winter project" and one subtle, (but massive), slip with that carbide cutter spining at 25,000 RPM has left a very deep gouge on the intake gasket sealing surface of one(1) of my heads. Since I've just started porting that head, I'm wondering if anyone local here has just one(1) good aluminum LT1 head that they've been using for a doorstop, that they might to part with for a few bucks???

I could probably weld repair the damage and try to resurface the area, but, it is a "sealing" surface, and it just might be as cheap to pick up another head?

Anyone got just one(1) lonely stock cylinder head sitting in their garage or basement out there.
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Old 02-14-2004, 01:30 PM
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The repair should be cheaper than buying another head and its nothing to worry about. I've seen epoxy used as well as tig weld repair. Epoxy and a flat file...jb weld
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Old 02-14-2004, 06:03 PM
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I was goin to suggest the same thing. jbweld that sucker and sang/file it back down.
btw, that carbide bit should be goin around 12000 rpm for that. its much easier to control. look here for some tips on home porting.

http://www.musserracing.com/index.htm


or see my thread at

http://www.musserracing.com/index.htm
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Old 02-15-2004, 02:34 PM
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Hot Rod & Iroc, thanks for the replies. Great minds do think alike and yes, I was considering JB Weld as a possible fix too. Iroc, I have read Jordon Musser's guide on head porting, and you refer to "your" guide, but that link just takes me back to Jordon's guide. If YOU also have a web site with tips on porting I would indeed like to read it. Just FYI also, the electric die grinder I'm using has a little "vibration problem" when using those 6" long carbide bits at most RPM's under 25,000, so it is actually easier to "handle" the grinder at the higher rotational speeds. ("Control" of the grinder is, of course, the issue that got me into this problem in the first place, so your comments are indeed well appreciated). Finally, I'm using ATF, (yes, Dextron automatic trans fluid) as a cutting lube, and it seems to be working pretty well, but, do you guys know of anything better to use as a cutting fluid when using carbide bits on aluminum heads? I've heard some people use silicone spray, is that stuff any better than ATF at preventing "clogging" of the carbide bits?

Also, if anyone does have that single lonely cylinder head out there looking for a mate, do let me know.

Thanks for any or all replies!
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Old 02-15-2004, 03:23 PM
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Use wd-40 you'll like it
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Old 02-15-2004, 04:14 PM
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I was goin to suggest wd40 too. and I didnt mean to imply "my guide". I meant "my thread" that has a couple diff. guides listed on it along w/some pics. good luck to ya. are you plannin on getting yours flowed? if so let me know they do and send some pics too. Im plannin on getting mine flowed when I get done w/them. so when I do I'll att. flow chart data and pics to my thread. or send them along if anyone wants them. Im only hoping for/expecting 250-260 flow at .550.. if I dont get it, I'll proly get some back cut valves to help me get there. we'll see.
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Old 02-15-2004, 09:39 PM
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Hot Rod & Iroc, WD-40 it is then. Got a bunch of it sitting right here in that big blue and yellow aerosol can. I'll definately give it a try.

Iroc, right now I'm not planning on having my project heads flow tested, but that may change? Do you guys know about what they charge for having a set of heads flowed?

Thanks AGAIN for the replies!
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Old 02-15-2004, 11:22 PM
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well, I havent made any calls yet. but Ive heard its in the area of 40-60bucks. as far as I know, thats one intake port,and one exh. port only. not all ports or both heads. Im jsut starting on my heads this week since I just got them to work last week. so Im still a few weeks away from needing to have this done.
chris
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