LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

your opinions- pistons and rods

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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 01:56 PM
  #1  
str8-6's Avatar
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From: tally, florida
your opinions- pistons and rods

hey guys. im currently rebuilding my lt1. i have extreme heads ported and polished with port max runners. oversized valves 2.0 and 1.6. they are flowing well but have no flow #s. has stock combustion chambers. im running 1.6 rr with the gm847 cam. the last bottom end i had in there was completely stock and it lasted me about a month. (opti went at the track advanced timing and popped 2 pistions) im spraying a 125 hp shot off of a zex wet kit. i was wondering what your opinions what set of pistions rings and rods u would recommend. i definitely need forged everything. and want to run the highest compression possible. (i dont know the max compression i can run with that cam setup). i wont be spraying it but maybe a bottle a year when i go to the track. my question would be what brand everything with what dish and rod length and all that good stuff. im working on this on a budget so something reasonably priced also, i know that hp and reliability = money but im also in college.

Last edited by str8-6; Jun 30, 2008 at 02:07 PM.
Old Jul 3, 2008 | 01:49 AM
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str8-6's Avatar
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From: tally, florida
all i want is your opinion on what u would recomend running or what you are currently or have used.
anything helps guys
Old Jul 3, 2008 | 06:41 AM
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I can't tell you what CR you need. Not enough info. But Wiseco makes a good forged piston at a decent price. Rod length makes a trivial difference, but FWIW here's what I generally recommend: unless you need a piston with a thick top ring land (big boost or heavy nitrous) go with a long rod. Not for hp, but because the rod/piston combination with a long rod is lighter. For a SBC, 6" rods are a good choice.

Rich
Old Jul 3, 2008 | 09:47 AM
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What was your ET/MPH and have you had the car dyno'd before it blew up? If you are putting down around 400 or so with the occasional nitrous, use a stock crank, lighter/cheaper I-beam rods and forged pistons. Anything else and I would probably go with Eagle stuff with Wiseco pistons (I like them too). Nitrous likes compression and I would think you could run at least around 11:1, but like what was said above without all the information we can't calc SCR/DCR to see where you are at.
Old Jul 3, 2008 | 05:58 PM
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From: Back in the US of F'in A
Mahle power packs and Scat 6" rods
Old Jul 4, 2008 | 09:41 AM
  #6  
str8-6's Avatar
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From: tally, florida
thanks keep em coming. i never had a full run out of it. the best run was when it blew. which was an 12.3 at 93mph with .02r/t. the dyno was 415 all motor with bad tune. i couldnt get ahold of any nitrous at the time. it was a split second decision to dyno. what other info do you need in order to calculate the cr and all the rest of the stuff and i can try to get it?
Old Jul 4, 2008 | 02:58 PM
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415 hp on motor ? Really!
Old Jul 5, 2008 | 05:20 PM
  #8  
str8-6's Avatar
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From: tally, florida
yes on a newer dyno jet. temps were at mid 60's. it was almost perfect weather conditions. had three pulls best one at 415.6hp with 426.4 tq all on a mail order tune.
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 11:37 AM
  #9  
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Thats great , That would be fun on spray.
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 11:44 AM
  #10  
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In my 355 I run Mahle power packs and 6.125 rod. Set up is really light weight and spins up very fast. The Mahle's are forged and coated and I really like their rings. Mine are gapped for a shot as well. If you can get your block decked to 0 and run a crank @ 3.50 with the -5cc pistons you will have a nice CR.
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