ok guys, heres the real story on how this will work on a lt1 with a stock manifold. i dont see any otherway to make this work using a stock manifold so.... please read carefully!!!! i have pics on my website

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/534496/2

1.) the first endevor you must take on is the removal of the intake, many write ups are out there, so use the search to find out how to remove the intake...this took 15 mins

2.) you must have your motor at #1 TDC, this is a much for phasing any SBC distributor. I donno how... but i phased this like any old SBC. ... this took 2 mins

3.) remove the oil pump gear plug and set aside.. this took 10 seconds

(EXTRA STEP.. your might have a problem at the end with the distributor not lining up for #1 TDC... i learned that this will help....using a screwdriver or oil pump primer... turn the oil pump driveshaft slot to 8 o' clock from behind the motor or if your standing infront of the motor to 2 o'clock. my engine was out so i can lookdown and see the relation... you might not be able to, again i dont know if this is needed!!!!

4.) go and set your intake on a bench, using a SAZZALL or other cutting tool remove the EGR boss's on the back of the intake.. you want to make the back of the intake flat. before you do this.... look at my website pic...2nd from the top!!! you must have yours look like this... this entire process took me 1 hour.

5.) after you have cut, grinded and removed the excess material off the back of the intake... you must now weld it up... i took mind to a local welding shop... they welded the aluminum plate to the manifold for 20$ ...took the shop the afternoon to do this.

6.) now that you have the intake off and welded up... you must now get a hole in your manifold.... i didnt know how to do this so i contacted John Millican at www.LT1INTAKES.com . John took about 1 week to get my intakes back to me.... which he did all the work himself to mount the new rear distributor. the work is great but i did have a problem with fitment and help helped me out alot... good deal to me!!!!

7.) goto summit or jegs and buy a MSD low profile billet crank trigger distributor MSD# 121-84697... http://www.jegs.com//cgi-bin/ncommer...66&prmenbr=361

this is a great disrtibutor thats low and doesnt take up alota room, in my opinion this is the only one i'd use for this mod, cost me 155 from a local speed shop that price matches jegs and summit!!!

8.)i got the intakes back and installed one..... it seemed the hole was too far to the right on the manifold.... you i took a grinder and made the hole big enough for my distributor to fit, even though there is a bigger hole than needed now... it will still work. this took me 1 hour to do

9.) with the intake on the heads with only 2 bolts holding the rear down... slide the disributor down and phase it to the #1 spark plug. you can search on how to phase on your own!!!! this took 2 mins

10.) after you get everything in the right spot... re-install the intake... install the distributor andbolt everything up, go buy some SBC HEI wires (cut to fit) and install them... stock wires wont work... no LT1 wires will work as the opti has different wire plugs!!! this took me 1 hour to do!!!

11.) run a longer coil wire to the distributor from your stock coil.... i'm using a MSD 6al to make the spark hotter since it must travel farther from the coil now.

12.) start it up, light it up!!!!!

i donno about phasing or installling the distributor too much so look it up... but other than that.... this was fun and only cost me 400$.... no more opti problems!!!! you may want to remove the opti rotor so as to keep the high and low res pulses clean from debris from the rotor comming apart!!!


any questions.. pm me!!!

 

Cool.
I was wondering about this a couple of years ago and no one thought it would work.

did you remove your opti rotor from your opti?

 

do you have it back up and running yet? how does the car run?

 

Thanks for the info!! if my opti goes this is what I am gonna do, is it running yet??

 

The catch is that you still need the opti there to control the timing. This is similar to the Delteq or LTCC system that the PCM still references the opti for engine timing. Looks pretty neat though!

 

this is cheaper than a delteq and less hassle in my mind... who wants to clutter up thier engine bay or mount coils underneather radiators or firewalls.

delteq is cool, but i'm never going to use it because i've spent 500$ or so on timing equipment like msd boxes and rev limiters and window swtiches and such... those are not compatable with delteqs!!!!... i'd have to go and buy more equipment.... thats not worth it to me, but if you want a good system.... delteq is the way

 

but is the car running yet? and how does it run?

 

car isnt running yet... but this will work.... read the thread from aljatar about the "interesting find".... anyone have questions

 

Ths mod won't work easily on the 93 LT1 though, unless you change the fuel rail setup.

 

Me.