LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Will this work for LT1 Hub?

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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 08:46 PM
  #1  
LenT1's Avatar
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Will this work for LT1 Hub?

I hate this ASP hub! Its a PIA to get on.

I know there is that $$$ kent moore tool and some people use thread all but do you think this tool will work on the LT1?

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...53075_-1_10783

I have the hub on about an inch now and its very tight. I think ASP cut the key slot very tight in terms of height so its a nightmare. Its already on so tight I dont want to try removing it and im worried about my crank threads already from me screwing around.

Will that tool work ok?
Old Jan 16, 2007 | 09:22 PM
  #2  
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If you are not already using something like that, how are you installing it in the first place?
Old Jan 16, 2007 | 09:27 PM
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I tried the stupid way of cranking a longer bolt in but decided to stop after it got too tight.

I just took the dang thing off and inspected the crank snout and threads and everything looks fine so im ok. I took some pics I would like you guys to check out. There are a lot of metal shavings on my hub now! I think a couple fragments are from a bolt and the first crank thread but I dont know what the rest are.

Inspect the crank snout and where the shavings are. I think the key on the snout is too tall (the slot in my hub is not tall enough). Can I file or grind down that key?

Oh yea, click thumb nail then click again to see zoomed in. I took the best my lil camera can take...you can see the oil in my skin!





Last edited by LenT1; Jan 16, 2007 at 09:29 PM.
Old Jan 17, 2007 | 06:44 AM
  #4  
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From: Jackstandican
I think you can make that one work, but I'm not quite sure how.

Here's another cheap alternative:

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=494340
Old Jan 17, 2007 | 07:25 AM
  #5  
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You can get a piece of grade 8 all thread from McMaster-Carr along with any nuts or washers you need.
Old Jan 17, 2007 | 09:45 PM
  #6  
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OK Guys heres whats up. I measured the key slot and the key. Seems my slot is a whole millimeter shallow meaning the key is a millimeter too large. Should I just deal with taking the timing cover off and grinding down that key a bit or what?
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 06:59 AM
  #7  
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From: Jackstandican
Originally Posted by LenT1
OK Guys heres whats up. I measured the key slot and the key. Seems my slot is a whole millimeter shallow meaning the key is a millimeter too large. Should I just deal with taking the timing cover off and grinding down that key a bit or what?
that' what i would do as long as there is a way to keep the file fragments out of the oil pan.
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 08:41 AM
  #8  
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I've been using a hub install kit from Summit, but, modified the 7/16 stud to make it longer(welded it), and, used a 2" pipe coupling spacer on the front side of hub. I also tried to install a keyed hub (from Thunder racing). The tollerance on the keyway was very tight. Ended up destroying the hub, and, cracked some the hub seal land on the timing cover. Ground the sharp edges off the time-cover (used alot of greese to catch chips), and, did not use the keyed hub. The woodruff key will want to rotate if you don't get perfect hub-key alignment. I dont know how to do that, so, I went with a heavy ARP 5/8 bolt (ground down) and blue locktite, and, no key. So far I've been luckey turning the D1 with no slip problems. This has been my experience installing a 97 - 383/ D1.
Hope this helps.
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 12:39 PM
  #9  
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i own that tool from jegs. it is in my pile of stuff that i wil never use again. it does not have a piece that fits our lt1 crank thread. the way it works is one end threads into the tool, the other into the crank, so its not like you can just go a buy something at a store (you could weld a bolt to it though)

to get the bolt in i just use a long grade 8 bolt with like 6 washers on it, then use the impact gun. gets it on in no time
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 01:05 PM
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I use a piece of grade 8 all thread. I cut two pieces, one about 5" and one 8". I used a piece of pipe (chromemoly ) that would just fit the crank sprocket and the hub about 4" long. I then used a flat piece of steel, maybe 1/8", and drilled a hole just a bit larger than the all thread. I then used that assembly with some washers and a grade 8 nut to install both the crank sprocket and the hub/balancer (mine is one piece). This works perfect since there is no bolt that will bottom out and mess up the threads on the crank. It puts all the pressure (theoretically) on the threads of the all-thread, not the crank threads.
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 01:29 PM
  #11  
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Jlo
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From: B'ville
One quick Q' what's the part # of that pulley/hub, also, does this pulley replace the factory style hub and damper??
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 03:13 PM
  #12  
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If you're asking me, Jlo, I don't know. There aren't any markings or numbers on it. Mine replaces the factory hub and damper.
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 06:24 PM
  #13  
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There is no part number for mine or atleast i dont know it. I called up ASP after buying their dampner and asked for a hub. Its real nice looking piece just not a big enough key slot!!
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