i need a answer quick will it run and if it runs how will it run????

 

It will run, and you probably won't notice its missing. Its not a balancer, its a damper, and it keeps the crankshaft from experiencing large displacement torsional vibrations, which cause fatigue of the metal. Just don't run it too long.

 

you must have at least the hub in place so that it will not puke the oil. would not recomend running for very long.

 

The balance is also the pulley for the accessory belt, so you won't be charging the battery or have power steering.

 

Yea, that will make a mess for sure.

B

 

Bad Idea Just Dont Be Lazy

 

Just put it on. Doesnt take long.

 

it will run without it. Obviously none of your accesories will turn because there is no place to run the belt. If you just need to move the car or something it will run and it will be OK to move it. Not recommended to run it for long periods without it for reasons that Injuneer stated.

Oh and the hub thing too

 

I just did my dual roller timing set, all new clean gaskets on the timing cover, waterpump and new seals for the opti/cover and crank hub/cover. I had to buy bolts that fit the stock hub holes to pull it then I put my fluidampr on without installing the spacer for it that goes up against the crank gear. I pulled the fluidamper and put it back on within the half hour. Taking my time, walkign around and talking to people. It is easy to throw on there. I did not have to use a hub installer because with the fluidampr there is a keyway and the hub can be greased to slide on. then I bought a $30 arp crank hub 12 point bolt with thick steel washer and it looked like it was made for it. I used the fat arp bolt to slowly pull the hub on with a torque wrench and used a lazer level and the belt to make sure it was seated all the way. Came out perfect the second time around and went smooth as could be. The belt tensioner on our cars is the easiest setup as well. One little drive and bend it down. it takes less then 30 minutes...

 

it will run but you risk the chance of cracking the crank

 

Pulling the hub in place risks stripping the threads in your crank snout. Use a hardened threaded rod, nut and washers to push the hub in place.

 

the ARP bolt/washer has a large flat surface that pushes against the fluidampr. the stock setup does not have a very large washer. the setup I had allowed me to use some white lithium on the crank snout, contact surface of balancer and washer contact surface. Nice easy slow turns easily pressed the balancer into place all the way down without any fight at all. I then took the bolt back out and applied a tiny drop of thread locker and threaded it back into place. Worked perfectly. if you re-installing the stock hub you would definately want to use an installation tool for the reasons mentioned. The stock bolt is not a harded arp bolt and the stock hub does not use a keyway and should not have too much grease on it so it does not slip around once installed so doing it my way would be risky. Lowes has the parts to build the hub installer. I was close to settig it up but realised I could do what I did. So I did*