Will the Transgo Shift Kit Work in the 4l60 Trans? I believe that I don't have the electronic 4l60e, is this correct? Please let me know if this correct. Thank you for your reply.

Tuff

 

You don't have the 4L60E. We have the 700R4.
I had the pleasurable experience of having the wrong shift kit sent to me and installed by an idiot mechanic. The end result...transmission rebuild. oh yeah! and what a job he did fixing it. It only went out 3200 miles later. I had to take it to a reputable racing transmissoin builder.

Now it rocks.

Trans-go makes a kit for the 700R4. Some transmission builders swap out some of the rings/bands that come with the kit for stronger ones. Might want to research that some.

 

youre exactly right. Lt4 KM will not work with 93s, you have to desensitize the knock sensor. Your really shouldnt have a problem , from what i read was because gm didnt have to worry about that much knock b/c there were no cars with roller rockers (maybe the vette zr1 not sure though)

 

I have the 4L60 which turned into the 4l60-e in 94+ cars. not the 700R4 , i was under the impression that 3rd gens had 700r4 trans.

 

the 4L60 and 700R4 are the same. I always called it the 4Ll60, but it seems most trans mechanics call it the 700R4. But my understanding is they are one in the same. I just had it rebuilt by a very reputable trans shop here in FL and they call it a 700 R4.

 

Correct. You will hear very few people call it a 4l60. Most people who say 4l60 are talking about 4l60e, even if they don't add the e, but the 93s were 700r4 trannys.

 

thanks for the good info! so basically the few people (me) that call it the 4l60 just call it that bc the 700r4 are both non electric, right?

 

700R4, 4L60, 4L60E are basically the same design. Differences:

4L60 is a beefed up version of the 700R4.
4L60E is the electronic version of the 4L60. Basically, all shifting is controlled and monitored by the PCM.

 

what did they beef up?

From my understanding, they just renamed if so it's easier to identify.
4 = 4 speed
L = Longitudinal (I am pretty sure that is what it means)
60 = the Torque rating

and then for the 94+ they added the "E",
E = Electronic

 

zepher, i belive your correct with your last statement

 

You really don't have that many mods.Headers help but on our ls1s you have to tune for them or you run rich and get slower.
Not sure if lt1 is same in regards to headers.

Also you have 3.23 gears for sure some had 2.73.This really hurt you off the line and from a roll.M6 cars have 3.42 gears.And like was said less drivetrain loss.So likely a combination of these things.As was said if you really want to put hurt on m6 cars then get a good stall 2800 to 3500 and some nittos.That should do it and 3.42 gears or even maybe 3.73 help a bit too but the stall does more on autos then just about any other mod.Except for the big stuff of course..nos ,superchargers,turbos or heads,cam,intake..

 

Well, if we assume that his car was a B4C stock formula, that was maintained all its life (by the police force), and is running good ....

There's just too many variables in place to determine one single thing that caused you to lose.

So far, it has been said that your knock sensor is picking up false knock, his gear ratio is MUCH better, you are running rich, and your tires need replacing. Do you know if your headers are leaking at all .... even the slightest? If they are, that'll loose you some more power.

I say start looking for ways to improve the efficiency of your current setup before upgrading anything else.

Thomas.

 

Stock for stock, an M6 with a good driver will beat an A4 anyday...

You add a stall and that changes everything. Torque converters are what gives A4's an advantage at the track. M6 will put down more HP and has more (less dead spots) and better (3.42 vs 3.23) gears.

Get a stall and you will take him off the line and should win. But from a roll, sorry... but an A4 will never beat an equivalent M6.

I have 2 friends who used to both have 99 TA's one A4, one M6. The guy with the A4 had headers, ORY, cutout, and lid. The M6 guy had a lid and a cutout. The M6 guy would win every time. From a roll or on the highway it was a joke.

 

I had a 92 Z28 with the 700R4 and it was a great tranny, but I had to manually shift it sometimes to keep it reved a bit longer. The only problem with this is...if you manually shift it constantly, Ive learned from experience you can actually cause your tranny to slip after a long time. My 87 Fiero (dont ask..had it when I was 17 for daily driver when I had my 92) was auto, I shifted like a race car (much higher rpms than stock shift points)manually all the time lol..they really are FUN as HELL to drive, specially in the snow, and it actually started slipping after a few months when I would drive it normal.
Once I purchased my 94Z with the M6(cracked heads) and got it fixed to running condition ( upgraded of course ), I learned how to drive a Manual Trans efficiently, I would never go back to auto unless I wanted to drag it at tracks. Plus there is no better feeling than shifting those gears to merge into traffic or on the highway! When you are going 20-25 on an onramp and drop that baby into 1st with the tires smokin through the next three gears till you hit 100 within a quarter mile onto the highway, there's no better feeling
You said in the beginning thread, he was completely stock. Then said he may have some type of police interceptor package...that by FAR is not stock. Might wanna ask the guy next time. Those are two TOTALLY different setups. Police of course were in their right minds to chose the LT1s for highway chases, but then added *some* power
But yeah, like they said, stall and tune before you upgrade
Good luck man, hope everything works out and you can get some revenge on this guy for your car.Sorry for the long thread, just my .02 on the situation...
LT1:::>