Im stumped. Got the passenger mount out im under an hour. Girlfriend is manning the hoist i have on the shock towers to raise and lower the engine. This made it easy to remove.

Now ive spent the last 4 hours trying to get the new poly mount back in.

The method im using is to pull the through bolt out and then remove the clam shell. So for install im trying to get the clam shell bolts started in the k member then maneuver the engine up and down to get the through bolt in. The bracket that is bolted to the engine is still in place.

The problem seems to be that the clam shell just too wide. I can get it into the space between the engine bracket, but if i start the bottom bolt, the side with only 1 k member bolt, i cannot start the other 2 and it's too tight to slide the clam shell around to get the others started. Ive tried using a crow bar but it isnt getting the holes to line up, theyre just so far apart.

Any tips? If this persists im going to grind some of the poly on both sides of the mount to give me some leeway.

This job sucks.

Prothane mounts.

 

The poly is much harder than the rubber given there is zero flex. Have you tried unbolting the trans mount and cross member to give some extra angles? Honestly it’s really about being super observant about where the engine needs to go and getting it maneuvered into position. I had to use a dead blow hammer to get the last 1/4 inch.

 

No I did not.

I'll do that today. Should i loosen the bracket on the engine as well? I was thinking about loosening every bolt on all mounts.

 

I didn’t need to. I’d start with the trans cross member and see what else is needed. Play the rest by ear!

 

I have energy suspension poly motor mounts. I don't remember having any alignment issues, but I did do mine when I pulled the engine out the bottom for other work.

I did have issues with too much poly inside the metal tube where the bolt slides through. I think I had to carefully drill it out to get the bolt to slide through....threads were catching on poly....would not allow it to go in.

 

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but approximately how much engine lift could someone expect to get going from worn mounts to new mounts? I lowered my car with Sam Strano springs and my Kooks headers/y-pipe have pretty poor ground clearance afterwards. I'm still running my factory mounts and at this point I expect they're probably shot, but who knows. I don't know whether worn mounts are the result of time, mileage or both.

 

Likely a measure of all of the above. For a measurement, it is really hard to say for me, because I also replaced my cross member when I did the mount. On the BMR cross member, the drive side mount is built in, so the clam shell is not re-used. I would say in this setup, I had about 1/3" raising of the engine.

 

I haven't messed with this since I posted. I took vacation this week so I figured I'd go back out and work on this with the trans mount removed.

This made it so much easier. I wish I would have done that from the very beginning. The passenger side I was able to finish in about 1.5 hours.

One thing to note, if you're going with prothane, you need to chop them up. I chopped them up because the bolts couldn't go into the clam shell to mount to the crossmember because they run right into the poly. I had the bolts going easily in and out outside the car after the first cut, but once I put it in, the problem occurred again. Luckily, it was on the front of the engine side and I was able to fit my small cordless sawzall in there to saw a little of the corner off to allow the bolt to fit.

Drivers side was such a piece of cake. Took literally 5 minutes to get it off and it was back in the car in under an hour. Crazy.

This was my setup:

Trans jack to move the trans up and down.


Engine hoist chained up to the headers to move the engine up and down. I would not attempt this job without this.


Once you disconnect the transmission and raise and lower the engine, the job is fairly simple. Even with this, I'd expect to spend a few hours on the passenger side and about an hour on the drivers side.

 

Also - I must say, this is a must-do mod. I wish I did this a long time ago. The car feels like a new car. Very solid and much quieter. No more exhaust rattles, which is huge because my long tubes rattled a lot which was a big reason for putting the mounts in.

Also, I can't prove it, but the exhaust fumes aren't nearly as bad. I am thinking that it may be because the engine is not shaking all over the place.

All in all, it's a crap job but totally worth it. Couldn't be happier with the results.

 

Awesome, I am glad that the transmission mount helped you out! While it's fresh in your mind, do the poly mount for the trans too, as these are the three main points for holding the power in your car.

What is the engine brace called, and where did you get it? That is 9 kinds of awesome!

 

I did all three It was in the kit that I bought.

I got that hoist at harbor freight. It's a must have.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-l...bar-96524.html

 

Thanks for the link!

 

What did you attach to? I am normally used to bolting to the front of the heads, but it doesn’t seem like this would reach.

 

Above the picture indicates “chained up to headers”.

 

Thanks Fred, I am guilty of scrolling passed this on my phone too quickly!