I don't know about the lubrication thing, but I smeared the hub and snout with antiseize and did the keyed hub mod. No slipping for me. I did this for hopefully an easier removal next time and less so for lubrication on install.

 

l know you are trying to defend your statement, but I think this situation is different from your generic interference fit scenario. Since the hub is subjected to a particular twisting force, I feel you don't want any lubricant. Consider, too, that a normal interference fit situation, does not have a bolt added for extra holding power/security. I have also never seen anywhere in an engine or factory manual where is says to lubricate this before assembling.

 

Just trying to cover all the perspectives I don't have the factory service manual to check what GM actually recommends I think in other cases without a bolt for extra hodling power the quality of the joint would be even more critical. Remember we also have the belt to slip before the hub on the cranks does. I'll let you guys know if my alternator and powersteering drag ever overpowers the hub joint

 

You might think the hub coming off is rare and probably is, but I have read many posts of the hub coming off (one just the other day on this board, I think). These were not supercharged engines, either.

I have also read enough posts to find that some people have found that their arrow on the hub was not lined up correctly to the crank. This leads me to believe that the possibility of the hub turning on the crank is indeed real.

I have never had a problem removing or installing a hub or SBC/BBC damper without lubrication.

 

Fred, you are probably right about the lube thing.

My experience and knowledge gained in struggling with this odd ball hub design on several occasions has reminded me of the proverb like advice: "Use the right tool for the right job". Most of the folks that have had problems with hub removal/install were not using the right tools that work for this hub design. Many like me learned the hard way. With the right tools, removing and installing the hub is not so tramatic.... when using the right tool the right way.

BTW, I still recommend getting a keyed hub and not worrying about any slippage.

 

who's Fred?

 

One of the guru's on the board that I frequently confuse with Rob the Shoebox!

 

yea, I know, I was just giving you a hard time.

 

I consider it an honor.

 

ok so i finally got around to putting everything back together and the last thing i was working on was, of course, the crank hub/balancer hub. well after wrenching the beyotch on almost all the way I noticed it isn't sitting right. slightly cockeyed, --> engine | \ <-- hub

well i stopped, got all mad, and left. this is bad, just how bad is it though? i have no idea if the crank end is damaged, i'll find that out tomorrow. how screwed could i possibly be?

thanks

 

did you tap it on with a rubber mallet first? Just correct it and try again. What else can ya do?

 

ya, actually i was beating the **** out of it with a rubber mallet, whoops! I know there's not much I can do right now, I just hope to God that I'm not in deep doodoo. I just quit my job and am searching for another. So I don't have a ton of $$ to use to fix the beast.

 

Yea, I feel ya... All you can do is try again. I'm trying to imagine why that would happen. It wasn't really an issue on my car. Hope someone can help you. Good Luck

Edit: The rubber mallet is the correct approach, just try to beat it on evenly, I guess

 

Though it has been explained pretty clearly,
here is a pic of the tool I made for installing the crank gear. The hub install tool is the same minus the pipe.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...92266903pfzjxy

Jeff D.

 

thanks for the pic jeff, that actually helps me out a lot and may be the reason why i'm f-ing retarded right now.


i'm gonna try to beat it evenly, gotta give some love to the left ya know