When is milling the intake necessary?
Re: When is milling the intake necessary?
Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
Think about what you said.....
Now how is milling material OFF of the intake face of the intake going to HELP that? You are now INCREASING the gap between the intake and the head... when the intake was getting CLOSER to the head before.
I'll get back to this post tomorrow.
Bret
Now how is milling material OFF of the intake face of the intake going to HELP that? You are now INCREASING the gap between the intake and the head... when the intake was getting CLOSER to the head before.
I'll get back to this post tomorrow.
Bret
Re: When is milling the intake necessary?
When the heads get closer together on the intake side from decking or cutting the head, where the intake will not go down far enough to line up the port's(most important thing),then some has to be taken off the intake side of the head or the intake itself to line the port's up. Then ya fix the bolt holes to line up and the face angle for the bolt head to be correct.Ya also have to remove some off of the ends if that won't let it go down but there is no specific gap dimension for the end rails unless ya want to run a gasket of thick paper, cork or rubber.
It takes a fair amount of cutting to get the intake not to line up.
It takes a fair amount of cutting to get the intake not to line up.
Re: When is milling the intake necessary?
Originally Posted by 1racerdude
When the heads get closer together on the intake side from decking or cutting the head, where the intake will not go down far enough to line up the port's(most important thing),then some has to be taken off the intake side of the head or the intake itself to line the port's up.
Originally Posted by 1racerdude
Then ya fix the bolt holes to line up and the face angle for the bolt head to be correct.
Bret
Re: When is milling the intake necessary?
Well i dont know whats up with mine, but golen 383 zero decked, LE2 heads, and my intake doesnt fit right, tried to put it on today. I opened the holes but i guess not enough, gonna try to get more work done when this hurricane lets up
Re: When is milling the intake necessary?
Originally Posted by 97s10ondubs
Well i dont know whats up with mine, but golen 383 zero decked, LE2 heads, and my intake doesnt fit right, tried to put it on today. I opened the holes but i guess not enough, gonna try to get more work done when this hurricane lets up 

Last edited by 1racerdude; Aug 25, 2005 at 05:06 PM.
Re: When is milling the intake necessary?
So if i have .015 taken off from Lloyds milling + my block is zero decked, what do i need to have taken off of my intake sides and rails, cause it obviously needs to be done.
Re: When is milling the intake necessary?
sorry to dig this up.
dont forget, you guys also have to account for a reduction in combustion deck height when you install a thinner head gasket. going from a .049 gasket to a .028 is .021 difference. take that into account as well when you consider the difference between stock height of the heads. i had an overall difference of .036. my intake would not seal properly on the inside edges where the intake meets the heads. if you do consider getting the intake milled, you have to use the formula stated from the LT1 rebuild book noted in a previous post. otherwise you could make the bottom of the intake wider/narrower than it was previously and still cause you sealing issues.
i was under the impression that due to the reduction in combustion deck height, the heads would actually sit closer together. causing the intake to sit higher up on the heads. removing the material actually allows the intake fall into place with the now closer together heads. correct me if i'm wrong here.
i had a problem with the intake sealing. i tried several ideas to fix the problem without milling. i milled the intake using the formula from the LT1 rebuild book and now my sealing issues are pretty much gone.
as far as signs the intake is not sealing, mine were way obvious. i could pull a spark plug out and find it saturated with oil. pull the intake and there was a definite line of oil coating across the entire intake gasket.
dont forget, you guys also have to account for a reduction in combustion deck height when you install a thinner head gasket. going from a .049 gasket to a .028 is .021 difference. take that into account as well when you consider the difference between stock height of the heads. i had an overall difference of .036. my intake would not seal properly on the inside edges where the intake meets the heads. if you do consider getting the intake milled, you have to use the formula stated from the LT1 rebuild book noted in a previous post. otherwise you could make the bottom of the intake wider/narrower than it was previously and still cause you sealing issues.
i was under the impression that due to the reduction in combustion deck height, the heads would actually sit closer together. causing the intake to sit higher up on the heads. removing the material actually allows the intake fall into place with the now closer together heads. correct me if i'm wrong here.
i had a problem with the intake sealing. i tried several ideas to fix the problem without milling. i milled the intake using the formula from the LT1 rebuild book and now my sealing issues are pretty much gone.
as far as signs the intake is not sealing, mine were way obvious. i could pull a spark plug out and find it saturated with oil. pull the intake and there was a definite line of oil coating across the entire intake gasket.
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