I never had any problems with wheel hop until this year. I got rid of my single turbo and put twins on the car. There is a little more weight in the front of the car which lowered it a little. I also put 315's in the rear of the car 17" rims, last year I had 245's on 16" rims. Last year the car would either spin a little then hook or grab and go. This year the car wheel hops so bad I have to let off the gas. Im wondering if its the 315's because I have to run about 30psi in the tires where I had 17psi in the 16" rims allowing the tires to wrinkle.

What do you guys think?

 

wheel hop = to your drivetrain.... be careful

 

Get some aftermarket lower control arms and it should get rid of all your wheel hop. If your car is lowered, definatly get the relocation brackets as well. You can get by without the relocation brackets in a non-lowered car, but if you dont mind spending an extra $70, they will help even more.

 

Yeah, I don't think those short sidewalls are helping you a lot. I don't know how much suspension stuff you have done, but might want to try doing those too if you haven't.

 

As for suspension I have done nothing in the past because the stock stuff has worked great. I have a spohn torque arm that i put back in, the car transfers better but still hops bad. I also made some subframe connectors over the winter, not sure if thats aiding in the hop. As for LCA I was thinking of making some out of boxed steel I have laying around, does everyone run a bushing or does anyone just drill a hole and bolt it up?

 

That's a recipe for a BAD ride. I'd look into lakewood LCA's, very inexpensive.

 

I have lakewood on my ride and i am pretty pleased with them

 

Whether you want to make them yourself, or just buy some aftermarket ones, I think LCAs and LCA relocation brackets will do wonders for your car. I would personally recommend Spohn or BMR for the LCAs, and BMR for the relocation brackets. You might want to look into a panhard bar too.

 

Replacing your rear shocks could also help reduce wheel hop. LCA's + shocks solved my problem.

 

You don't neccessarly need new control arms.

You DO need relocation brackets though. Once you get your geometry back to where it should be the stock arms will work fine. I have both on my car. The improved traction comes from the brackets, the LCA's just look cool Good luck.

-brent

EDIT*

I shouldn't have said need, i misread your post and thought you actually lowered your car. Statement still stands, improving your geometry with brackets will benefit you more. Your right, less sidewall with the 17s is not helping the situation.

 

Wheel hop is caused by a lot of things; mainly springs. Springs? Well, not just coil springs, but the rubber bushings in your suspension arms which act as springs, and your tires, which are springs too.

Wheel hop is what happens when a tire slips, and then reconnects with the pavement. This jerking compresses the factory rubber bushings, and they bounce back. The shock continues as long as the input continues.

You can replace just your rear LCA bushings with steel sleaved poly-U bushings, but it is a waste of time and money. Why? Because the the lip of the press fit holes widen on your factory arm. After the steel sleeve of the poly bushing widens the hole, you will a nice clunk when you accel, or brake. Back when poly was just introduced widespread (1990), I saw this all too often, and twice on my own car. Back then I was running 275's.

SLP sold boxed factory LCA's which are a waste as well, in fact, nearly moronic. It's OK for an LCA to twist. What is fundamentally important is that it's length never changes under compression or tension. An LCA that twists would actually be near perfect, if it were not for the fact that it would act as a spring (as they twist), and store some amount of energy waiting to released at an inopportune moment. Until then, we use joints that twist. :-) Polyurethane is cheap, and works. Heim joints work even better, but the noise in the cabin is greatly increased. I'm introducing a line of LCA's which have the best of both worlds.

You can find welded tubular LCA's out there for very cheap. Lakewoods are very inexpensive, and work just fine. As a potential competitor to Lakewood, it's near impossible to beat. I assume your not running 315's just for show. It's definitely time to upgrade.

Your tires are a contributing factor. If you where running a lessor tire, it would just continue to slip, and not induce bouncing.

Relocation brackets aren't necessary, and should come last. Only required if you have lowered your vehicle (haven't we all?).