The first thing I would do, is get tunercat and a cable and learn to log and tune the car myself. That way when problems crop up or if theres something about how the car drives that you dont like you can handle it easily. Knowing how the pcm works is also a very good thing to have at your disposal as well. You can use freescan to make sure all your sensors are reporting reasonable values. I would also change the fuel filter and look into having the injectors cleaned.

After that the first thing i would do is change gears, it will change the way the car drives over any other bolt-on. You'll shift more around town, but the car will feel a whole lot stronger to say the least.

Then start on the exhaust side, put a good catback on then headers (along with new plugs and wires). Then a good cai. After that if you have the skill i would change the stock valve springs over to the crane spring kit and put some 1.6 rockers on with good pushrods.

After you finish that list, take it to the dyno and get it all making its best.

Since your suspension is probably sagging with its age, i would look into some lca relocation brackets to correct the geometry back there, and put a bag in the pass side spring to keep the car going straight.

After that it gets more involved and expensive.

 

If You're Looking For A Budget Bolt On Set Up, Which Is What I Did When I First Started Iw Ould Probably Go With:

Mac Mid Lengths With And Ory

K&n Cai

Tune By Pcm For Less

160 Thermostat

Magnaflow Cat Back

Throttle Body Bypass

Just A Few Off The Top Of My Head And I Spent Less Then A Thousand On Everything

 

1)LS1 drive shaft.
2)Long tube headers, y pipe, and a good flowing cat back
3) Good tune
4)LS1 front brakes
5)1.6 roller rockers with new springs

 

I just made a profile on the site so I was looking at the Lt1 stuff and read your post. Does the change from factory to 1.6 roller rockers require tuning? I have asked around my town and all the people I know in drag racing run carbs and don't know alot about fuel injection.

 

No. but a spring change might be necessary if they are very old and weak. I did it @ 95,000 miles and was fine but even then a lot of people wouldn't recommend it.

My 1st mods were the GMPP cold air kit, loved it, and a gutted cat. The two of them made quite a difference in my car. It already had an air foil, Flowmaster Muffler and skip shift eliminator so I can't tell if there was any improvement from the air foil or muffler.

I did gears and a clutch, they were great.

The thing about these cars is that just about everything that you do will improve it but some things aren't worth the $$$$

 

DO NOT descreen your MAF!!!!!!!!! Yours will flow more than enough air thru there.

 

Yeah, I always hear that and no doubt maybe it's best not to but I did it 7 years ago and I've never had a problem, knock on wood, lol

 

My idle isn't as smooth as it was before the de screen. Just leave well enough alone.

 

De-screening should only be an option if you have a straight intake such as a corvette or LS1. As you'll notice, GM switched to a non-screened MAF with the LS6. If you have a curved intake tube, de-screening can alter air readings and may even set a code.

 

I really wouldn't know what a smooth idle feels like with the cam, LOL!

 

This guy's got the right idea. Z28's are relatively fast cars stock. Poor braking and handling are what really takes the joy out of driving them.

 

I am with some others do the brakes. If you want it to go fast you will want it to stop when you need it to.

 

Ok. I'm pretty sure I know where to get some LS1 calipers and the rest for little to nothing. What about nitrous on a stock engine with the 4L60E and 4.10 gears?

 

Nothing sucks worse than having to take the 3rd exit on the quarter mile while repeating the phrase "please stop in time, please stop in time, please stop in time".

 

Why not just go all the way to the end?

I didn't ever feel my brakes were bad for the 1/4 until @ 120mph traps. After that with stock brakes it really does take a bit of work to stop it.