http://www.girardgibbs.com/dexcool.html

Hmmm Seams there is.

 

That suit dealt specifically with the nylon/silicone lower intake manifold gaskets on various applications of the V6 engines. The problem was the gasket.

 

My mechanic used to race vettes,anyway,he says use what the owners manual says to use.Hope this helps.

 

z28beast:

"this stuff is yellow though?? i cant find full strength by prestone anywhere...but anyway after I flush and fill how many bottles of water wetter should i add i have 2?? also where do you get that rust inhibator stuff at?"

I bought a few gallons of the "old style greenish-yellow' Prestone years ago. This is the full strength, not the pre-mixed - pre-diluted. Initially one bottle of wetter. The inhibitor is/was in a small (1/2 pint?) yellow container - resembled a mini Prestone Anti-Freeze container. I've also used the Zerex "water pump lube and corrosion inhibitor" too. Another mini container but white in color.

 

You do know that Evans is Propylene Glycol? The same as Prestone Low Tox.

I sent an email asking Evans why theirs was so expensive compared to Low Tox and they chose not answer me.

 

No I did not know, but, Evans has the patent on that product (but it may be expiried). I've been running 3 years now. It works great. Also, Evans had many details on how to mod the LT1 WP which is necessary for the media change/ mod. Would I go back to Evans???, yes I would. How much is the same product from your prefered vendor??? I'm interrested. B.

 

First sorry for hijacking your thread. Second, don't assume that because someone mentioned the name of something, that it is their favorite. I just brought it up cause it's around $10.00 a gallon.
lowtox

 

Not sure is it makes any difference, but Evans claims his is "non-aqueous", the Prestone contains 3% water. The absence of water is what Evans bases his nucleate boiling pitch on.

http://www.evanscooling.com/water-ba...fferentiators/

 

So let's see. Low Tox = 10.00 and Evans = 30.00. If we take out 3% water from Low Tox will it cost us 3% more? So now it's 10.30?

Can you just leave it sit open for a few days and let the water evaporate out?

Here's another idea. After the water evaporates out, repackage it and sell it to the guys that bought Evans for $20.00. They save $10.00, you make $10.00 and everyone is happy

Just kidding. We don't want to make money.

 

I would just use the green stuff,and then close the hood.Using anything else could eat out the welds in your radiator(according the motor craft mag.oct issue 1996 or 7?)hope this helps.

 

I wasn't aware that aluminum radiators today even used welds. Mine have plastic end caps held on by crimps and the fins are merely slid on the tubes. Oh, the tubes are welded to the end plate that hooks to the plastic end caps. But aren't the welds the same material as the radiator itself? And why would "anything else" what ever anything else is, attack the welds and not the rest of the radiator? And what is "motor craft magazine"? I couldn't find it. I found Carcraft but not Motor Craft. But Carcraft didn't show an article in their archives.

I thought propylene glycol is milder than the "green" ethylene glycol mentioned? After all isn't some pharmaceuticals made with propylene glycol?

I guess I just have to go back to reading more, I must have this stuff all wrong.

 

Gee.... I better check my Griffin aluminum radiator. After 10 years of Dex-Cool, its probably ready to fall apart. At this point, it should be leaking like a seive.

[EDIT] Nope.... just checked, no puddles under the car, cap still holds 18psi, all the visible weld are OK.

 

This was a stock radiator.

 

Interesting that people call the Dexcool "acidic" the Ph of the stuff out of the bottle is about 9.5 which is on the "base" side of neutral (which is 7). Acid isn't good for aluminum radiators and engine parts. Since the vulcanization process on rubber radiator hoses uses sulfur, radiator water tends to get a little more acid with time. I monitor the Ph and add more Dexcool as appropriate to keep it in line. I've had 0 problems with the stuff. Then again, I change half of it out ever two years too so it never gets really old.

On the other side of the coin, Dexcool is low silicate compared to green stuff which is supposed to be less rough on waterpump seals. I went through two waterpumps in 65K miles using Dexcool so maybe this isn't so.

 

People see the term "organic acid technology" inhibitors and they blindly assume this means that the composition of the product is "acidic". As you have pointed out, it isn't.